It’s about time you took a day trip to
Mount Stuart on Bute.
Mount Stuart is a breathtaking Victorian Gothic mansion, set within three hundred acres of gorgeous gardens on the Isle of Bute. I took off on a day trip with CalMac and ScotRail to discover Mount Stuart for the first time, and it took me by complete surprise.
Sometimes, you visit a place once and you’re happy to tick it off the list; no repeat visit required. I quickly discovered that Mount Stuart is not one of them. I entered the experience with minimal research or expectation, and was totally taken aback. Mount Stuart is beautiful to the point it is quite overwhelming; it is unlike anywhere else I have visited on my travels. From the moment I arrived, I felt completely consumed by my surroundings and was annoyed with myself that the award-winning attraction hadn’t formerly been on my radar.
Until 1993, Mount Stuart was home to the Stuarts of Bute, who descended from Scotland’s famous King Robert the Bruce. The immensely impressive mansion was the dream-child of the 3rd Marquess of Bute, after the original house was destroyed by fire in 1877. Mount Stuart is the epitome of Victorian flamboyance and grandeur, from the immaculate gardens to the intricately designed interior. Mount Stuart is as much a destination as the Isle of Bute itself.
A wee intro to Bute.
The Isle of Bute sits just shy of the mainland on the Firth of Clyde. The main settlement of Rothesay was a popular Victorian resort town, and continued to be something of a wild-child for holidaymakers who arrived in their masses during the decades which followed. Today you’ll find palm trees, Victorian toilets and a 13thcentury castle with a moat.
Beyond Rothesay, Ettrick Bay is the most popular of the island’s many beaches, and the West Island Way takes in various bonnie landscapes. The best thing about Bute? You can reach the island in just 35 minutes on the ferry from Wemyss Bay.
Mount Stuart, a wee world of its own.
I stepped out from the visitor centre into the vast gardens, to begin the leisurely 15 minute walk to Mount Stuart House. I was clutching a trusty map for navigation, gob-smacked at the size of the estate; something I clearly hadn’t anticipated. Wandering amidst lush green foliage and crazy-tall trees, I was accompanied only by singing birds and the wee creatures rustling in the bushes.
On a freakishly hot summer’s day, with tropical-style flora in the gardens, it was easy for me to forget I was in Scotland. In fact, it felt so peaceful and expansive, I could almost forget there was even a world outside. The sun smooched my smiling face, and it all evoked a sense of childlike wonder.
Arriving at the house, it took a few seconds for my eyes to adjust to the contrastingly dim entrance hall. Louisa Davidson, Mount Stuart’s Visitor Experience Manager, warmly welcomed me to the far-from-humble abode, and sent me in the direction of the ‘must-sees’. The guides who stood within each room talked me through the extravagant surroundings, and pointed out details I would’ve otherwise missed. The colour and detail will bombard your eyes, and absolutely amaze you.
Subtlety has no place in Mount Stuart House. The 3rd Marquess, John Crichton-Stuart, had travelled extensively in Europe, and took inspiration from the architecture he admired there. He kept these ideas locked in his imagination, until his architect, Robert Rowand Anderson, brought them to life when construction began on the new building in 1880. The design reflects the Marquess’ religious and astrological ideals, and are enough to capture even the most inactive of imaginations.
The Marquess was the richest man in Britain at the time, therefore no cost was spared; an estimated £89 million in today’s money, to be exact! The level of opulence is almost difficult to comprehend. As well as the house itself, there are the beautifully designed gardens, and a private beach. Mount Stuart really is a wee world of its own.
Highlights of Mount Stuart.
I have visited many a palace and castle, and I haven’t experienced anything comparable to Mount Stuart. These palatial spaces can be very museum-like, and are difficult to imagine as anyone’s home sweet home. Mount Stuart, however, feels different. Despite its obvious grandeur, the bedrooms and bathrooms still appear homely and comfortable. I mean, I would happily move in if the offer was there!
Mount Stuart is somewhere I could visit time and time again, noticing different details and rich treasures each time. I strongly suggest you allocate as much time as possible to your visit, so that you properly appreciate both the house and the outdoor spaces. Here are my highlights.
The Marble Chapel – a wave of calm washed over me when I stepped into the bright, Carrara marble chapel. Weddings are held within the ornate interior, which is spectacular to say the least.
The Marble Hall – best viewed from the first floor balcony, the stained glass windows depict signs of the Zodiac, and splash colour into the spectacular space. The stars in the glass cast little flecks of rainbow onto the marble arches below. Check out the tapestries which portray Highland Games and a hunting scene.
The Drawing Room – I made myself at home on the sofa while admiring the Stuart family tree elaborately carved into the wood in the ceiling.
Purple Library – antique libraries have a magical charm, and this one is no different. Check out the old grandfather clock, and the colourful rows of old books. Shakespeare’s First Folio was discovered amidst the historic text, so who knows what other literary treasures are kept there.
The Courtyard – I enjoyed a lovely lunch in the pretty courtyard. The menu features local, homemade food and sweet treats. I had a black pudding sausage roll, red pepper soup and a banana & passionfruit loaf. It was all delicious! Next time I’m ordering the macaroni cheese with chorizo.
The Wee Garden – push down on the gate’s gold flower for entry into a hidden oasis. Such a serene wee spot, I wish I’d had longer to laze around.
Private Beach – I concluded my day with a wander along the estate’s glorious stretch of private beach. I could easily have spent a whole day on the beach alone, not even taking into account everything else that Mount Stuart has to offer.
More Highlights.
Swimming Pool – Mount Stuart was way ahead of its time in terms of technological enhancements. The tranquil indoor pool was the first heated swimming pool in the world. The house was also purpose built to have electricity, and was the first in Scotland to have central heating; things we take for granted today.
The Marble Staircase – ‘English marble’ limestone skirts the grand staircase, and when you look closely at the limestone you can see perfectly preserved fossils engrained within. How cool is that?!
Mount Stuart Today.
The 6thMarquess of Bute was also the Chairman of the National Trust for Scotland, and before he passed away in 1993, he set up the Mount Stuart Trust to preserve the house and its gardens for future generations to visit and enjoy. Mount Stuart is now owned by the Trust, and is open year round to the public for ‘Free Flow’ visits and private tours.
The house is also a spectacular wedding venue; newlyweds stay in the Horoscope Room, eat breakfast in the conservatory, and use the ‘secret passageway’ to go downstairs. Stella McCartney was married at Mount Stuart in 2003.
Further adding to its appeal, Mount Stuart House has an impressive and extensive art collection which would rival that of many famous art galleries (with all their ridiculous queues!). Mount Stuart also houses modern art exhibitions throughout the year, which you can read more about on the Mount Stuart website.
How to Get to Mount Stuart.
There are excellent public transport links to the Isle of Bute, and onwards to Mount Stuart. Creating your own Rail & Sail adventure is easy, starting with your train from the city to Wemyss Bay then a CalMac Adventure ticket over to Bute and Mount Stuart.
Train to Wemyss Bay ferry port.
- Off-peak day return from Glasgow Central – Wemyss Bay = £8.10
- If you’re travelling from Edinburgh, add on an off-peak day return from Edinburgh to Glasgow = £13
- I took the train to Glasgow Queen Street and walked 10 minutes to Glasgow Central
- You can pre-book tickets on the Scotrail website or purchase at the station
The train from Glasgow Central arrives into Wemyss Bay train station, which is conveniently connected to the ferry port. The current station dates back to 1903, and is a listed building.
The Edwardian style exudes vintage charm, and the local group ‘Friends of Wemyss Bay Station’ look after the station, and plant the flower boxes to restore its former glory.
CalMac Adventure to Mount Stuart.
When you arrive at Wemyss Bay, you can purchase the CalMac Adventure ticket to Mount Stuart, which includes the return ferry from Wemyss Bay to Rothesay, a local bus from the ferry port to Mount Stuart, and entry to Mount Stuart. It’s a super-swift door-to-door service.
- £18.55 per adult, and £12.80 per child including connecting bus travel
- £14.55 per adult and £10.70 per child without connecting bus travel
- Daily 30 March, 2018 – 21 October 2018*
- For for information visit the CalMac website
Have you thought about a day trip to one of the Scottish islands?
One of my favourite day trips is to the Isle of Kerrera Tea Garden. If you’d prefer a longer trip to the islands, the Outer Hebrides are a wee slice of paradise. Check out my posts on the Isle of Barra and Isle of Harris for inspiration.
My trip to Bute was sponsored by CalMac, to experience their CalMac Adventure to Mount Stuart. As always, all content, opinions & chaotic behaviour are my own.
Kay 💙
Whooaaaaaaa….. That looks ACE!
I have it mentioned to me before but didn’t realise it was this epic.
The food looks good too.
It’s off the scale Mel! Such an amazing place.
You would absolutely love it. It totally took me by surprise.
I’m definitely going to try their mac ‘n’ cheese next time
What a lovely read Kay, your writing takes us with you. Certainly on my list now!
Thanks so much Georgie – that’s exactly what I try to do. You should definitely plan a wee day trip there. Jackson would love it!