How to Spend a Day in West Fife & Culross
I took a day trip from Edinburgh to explore Culross and some charming villages in West Fife along the way. This trip was part of a paid campaign with GoDunfermline to share my experience of this adorable area with you.
The Kingdom is calling, and this time, we’re going west! Our journey keeps us close to the coast, wrapped in tales of the past, and immersed in the beauty and charm of the small seaside settlements and their chocolate box cottages. Say hello to North Queensferry, Charlestown & Limekilns, and Culross.
Separated only by short drives or long distance walking paths, these villages each have their own unique identity and history; their stories are shaped by the industries which once thrived – or the gigantic structures which were built upon them.
West Fife’s proximity to Edinburgh makes it the perfect day trip destination for anyone wanting to escape the city in favour of some calm, culture and coastal scenes. It is possible to visit all of these villages in one day if you have a car, and if you are prepared to set off early for a full day of exploring.
If you are travelling by public transport, I would recommend focusing your day trip on one or two of these locations. You could also extend your adventure with a wee overnight stay so that you can visit them all without rushing. The perfect excuse to linger in West Fife a little longer!
Overview of Itinerary
- Morning – North Queensferry
- Late morning/early afternoon – Charlestown & Limekilns
- Late afternoon/early evening – Culross
NORTH QUEENSFERRY
Start your day in the village of North Queensferry. Huddled around the shores of the Firth on a peninsula in the shadow of the majestic Forth Bridge, North Queensferry is often overlooked in favour of its busier and more popular neighbour across the water, South Queensferry. Equally beautiful and interesting, and with noticeably less people around, North Queensferry is always worth a stop for a wee wander.
TOP THINGS TO DO IN NORTH QUEENSFERRY
Forth Bridge Heritage Centre
The Forth Bridge is a masterpiece of engineering, Scotland’s sixth UNESCO World Heritage site, and an absolute dream to look at. In North Queensferry Station, a team of volunteers from the North Queensferry Heritage Trust have led projects to restore and transform the original Victorian rooms into the Forth Bridge Heritage Centre, a meeting venue, and an artists’ studio.
The heritage centre, once the Ladies’ Waiting Room in the station, is filled with memorabilia and professional photographs celebrating the railway and the bridge; including a newspaper clipping from the day the bridge opened in 1890.
Harbour Light Tower
Discover the world’s smallest operating lighthouse at the village harbour. This miniature light tower was built in 1817 by Robert Stevenson, to facilitate safe passage across the Forth. Stevenson was a civil engineer, and grandfather of the famous writer Robert Louis Stevenson. He left a legacy of iconic lighthouses around Scotland: Bell Rock, Eilean Glas, Sumburgh Head, Lismore and Dunnet Head and more
The North Queensferry Harbour Light Tower is special, not only for its compact size, but also for its signalling system and method for keeping the lamp lit. The dizzying spiral staircase doesn’t require much of an ascent, and the bonnie bridge is soon within sight through the windows at the top. Don’t forget to the sign the visitors’ book before leaving.
A Wee Forth Bridge and Maritime Museum
A stone’s throw from the Harbour Light Tower, and also managed by the North Queensferry Heritage Trust, this final wee gem of an attraction tells the story of the Firth of Forth; the geology, World War history and more about the bridge, of course! I loved the old black & white photographs of the bridge under construction, and a copy of the very fancy food menu in the programme from the official opening ceremony for the bridge on the 4th of March 1890.
Forth Bridge
Before you complete your walk on this pretty peninsula, take a closer look at the bridge, this time from directly underneath. This position offers a whole new perspective and appreciation of the mammoth structure and its complex cantilever design, and provides a top-notch photo opportunity!
How to get to North Queensferry
- Driving distance from Edinburgh: 40 minutes.
- Where to park: North Queensferry Station then walk down to the harbour.
- Public transport: Take the train from Edinburgh to North Queensferry Station (20 minutes each way and £5.90 return). You will cross the Forth Bridge on this journey.
CHARLESTOWN & LIMEKILNS
Once you’ve had your fix of North Queensferry, continue west towards the villages of Charlestown & Limekilns, which take their name from the former limestone industry and the man who founded it: Charles Bruce, 5th Earl of Elgin. In 1754, he constructed the planned village in Charlestown for the sole purpose of harnessing the local supply of lime and coal.
At the heart of the Industrial Revolution, the now sleepy village was a thriving industrial centre. While the industry no longer exists, it has most certainly left its mark in the character of the village.
TOP THINGS TO DO IN CHARLESTOWN & LIMEKILNS
Scottish Lime Centre
Preserving the heritage of the village, The Scottish Lime Centre Trust was set up in 1994 to promote traditional building methods for the benefit of the public and for the repair and restoration of traditional and historic buildings. They run courses for tradespeople, architects and students etc., and they also offer free advice to homeowners.
The Scottish Lime Centre has a small, drop-in exhibition about the lime industry and limestone itself. Did you know that limestone is comprised of the shells of sea creatures which lived 330 million years ago?! Facts like this never fail to engage and boggle my brain!
Charlestown Planned Village
The planned village in Charlestown is perfectly picturesque thanks to the rows of cottages with their colourful doors, classic orange roof tiles and quirky gardens. The original layout of the cottages, which can still be seen today, was in the shape of a C and E, standing for Charles Elgin. These former workers’ cottages would make a dream home or holiday hideaway.
Charlestown Limekilns
The most impressive remnants of the limestone industry are the fourteen old limekilns built into the cliffs beside Charlestown Harbour. In their heyday, these imposing arches were the largest limekilns in Scotland, and once contained huge coal furnaces which transformed limestone into quicklime for transport from the adjacent harbour. The limekilns appeared in Outlander Season 1, in the scene where Claire and Murtagh receive a message from Jamie and find Dougal in a cave with weapons and supplies.
The Ship Inn
Charlestown’s neighbouring waterfront village of Limekilns is home to a traditional, nautical-style pub/restaurant with a friendly, local atmosphere: The Ship Inn. There has been an inn at the port in Limekilns for hundreds of years, probably, long ago serving drunken sailors who were transporting goods in and out of the harbour. The current building dates back to 1828 and was mentioned in ‘Kidnapped’ by Robert Louis Stevenson. The lunch menu is excellent value at £16 for two courses and the daily changing homemade fishcakes are one of the specialities; we had to order them, of course.
How to get to Charlestown & Limekilns
- Driving distance from Edinburgh: 50 minutes.
- Driving distance from North Queensferry: 15 minutes
- Where to park: The Scottish Lime Centre or along the promenade in Limekilns.
- Public transport: The quickest way is to take the train from Edinburgh to Dunfermline or Inverkeithing, then a bus to Charlestown. Journey time approx. 1 hour.
CULROSS
The final stop of the day is one of Scotland’s most picturesque villages. Every inch of colourful Culross is simply beautiful; cobblestones and cottages, steep streets and wee alleys, cute cafes and historic buildings, with lots of envy-inducing raised gardens along the way. The most complete, and best preserved, example of a Scottish market town in the 17th and 18th century, Culross has been a designated conversation village since 1971.
The village is thought to have been founded by St Serf in the 6th century, and later in history, Culross became a Royal burgh, in 1588. Today it is a fairytale for photographers, a treat for Outlander fans, and the perfect escape from the city for… absolutely anyone!
Tuilyies Standing Stones
On the drive to Culross from Charlestown, keep an eye out for the Tuilyies Standing Stones in a field on the left side of the road. The cup-marked stones are believed to be from the Bronze Age. The stones are not accessible from the road.
TOP THINGS TO DO IN CULROSS
Culross Palace
Contrary to what the name would have you believe, this vibrant and enchanting building isn’t actually a palace. It was, in fact, built between 1597 and 1611 as a mansion house for Sir George Bruce of Carnock; a man whose engineering and innovation in the coal mining trade had a profound impact on the status and prosperity of Culross.
When visiting Culross Palace, Outlander fans are provided with a leaflet from the ticket office, which details the filming locations with the palace and the gardens. I was mesmerised by the elaborately painted walls and ceilings, still visible and beautiful after 400 years, and the walled garden which has been restored to its original glory: it is bursting with flowers, herbs, and freshly grown fruit and vegetables.
Dunimarle Castle
Tucked away on a hillside, amidst lush gardens, with views across the estuary, sits Dunimarle Castle. Though just outside the village centre and its main sights, the castle is still stunningly secluded, and could be easily missed. Once the site of the 12th century MacDuff stronghold, the striking gothic structure you see today was brought to life under the ownership of Magdalene Sharpe Erskine, who left behind an extensive collection of artwork, china, and painted glass.
The castle grounds are home to the magical St Serf’s Chapel, which is available as an intimate wedding venue. Tours of the castle gardens are available with the Estate Manager, George Fleming, and there are plans to open a café in the elegant Orangery.
Culross Abbey
Follow in the centuries-old footsteps of pilgrims from around the world, on a short but steep hike up to the 13th century Cistercian monastery at the top of the village. We roamed the ruins and climbed the ladder up on to a higher level. I always appreciate the artists’ impressions on the information boards at sites like this so I can picture how it would have looked in its original grandeur.
Outlander filming locations
Culross has been featured heavily in the Outlander TV series, making it a must-visit destination for devout fans of Jamie and Claire’s romantic escapades. Culross Palace is one of the main filming locations, however the streets and Mercat Cross will be very familiar to avid fans. Culross is the setting for the fictional village of Cranesmuir, the home of Geillis Duncan and the place where Claire and Geillis are taken to be trialled for witchcraft.
Sadly, Culross does have a dark history of real-life witch trials. Many (innocent) local women were held in the prison in The Town House and were subjected to horrific torture and death sentences. Plaques to commemorate the women have been installed along the Fife Coastal Path. Keep an eye out for them if walking along there.
How to get to Culross
- Driving time from Edinburgh: 1 hour
- Driving time from Charlestown & Limekilns: 15 minutes
- Public transport: The easiest route is by bus from Edinburgh to Dunfermline then another bus to Culross. Journey time approx. 1 hour 40 minutes.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION ON CULROSS & WEST FIFE
If you would like more information and inspiration for a day trip or longer adventure in this stunning area, check out this Dunfermline and West Fife eBook or the website which splits the activities and attractions into categories to suit your specific interests.