Isle of Arran: What to Do & Where to Eat
The Isle of Arran is perfect for anyone who wants to experience everything that’s great about Scotland, on one idyllic wee island. Here’s my detailed travel guide, including my top things to do, places to eat, beaches and walks.
This post is part of a paid campaign with Hostelling Scotland, to give an honest review of Lochranza Youth Hostel, and discover the best things to do on Arran.
All good Scottish things come in an Arran shaped package. There are castles, standing stones, mighty mountains, bonnie beaches, stunning vistas, tasty produce – and single malt whisky! I would recommend staying for at least a long weekend to properly do it justice, although I could easily spend much longer exploring… and eating. Arran will absolutely spoil you.
Arran is closer than you think. The island’s mountainous silhouette can be seen from Ayr right round to the East Coast of Kintyre – and from the islands of Bute and Great Cumbrae. The main ferry from Ardrossan takes under an hour to grace its scenic shores, and the drive to the ferry port is only an hour for lucky Glaswegians; but still only two hours for us Edinburgh dwellers. Arran is infinitely appealing, and this short journey time is just the cherry on top of the cake.
Arran is an easy island to explore. It’s the largest island in the Firth of Clyde, and the seventh largest island in Scotland, but it’s still relatively small. At only twenty miles long and ten miles wide, you can cover a lot of ground within a short space of time; most of the main sights are laid out right in-front of you. I’m highly skilled in the art of getting lost, and even I have managed to navigate without any mishaps. You don’t have to walk, drive or bus-hop for long to reach the next attraction, and those with a heightened sense of curiosity can discover their own barely-beaten path in the wild and remote pockets of the island.
The beauty of Arran is far from one-dimensional. Thanks to its unique geology, Arran has the best of all worlds. It is an island with lush green glens and soft sand beaches, palm trees soaked in sunshine and soaring peaks concealed by mist. The Highland Boundary Fault cuts diagonally through Scotland, from Arran on the West Coast to Stonehaven on the East. Not only does this create a geological – and aesthetic – divide on the mainland, it means that Arran has its very own Highlands and Lowlands too. When people say, Arran is ‘Scotland in Miniature’, it’s not just a cute nickname!
I LOVE Arran. I love the stark contrast between the north and south of the island, and the ever-shifting light, which changes the colour and shape of the landscape like an optical illusion. I love that you can embrace the all-consuming peacefulness, or stay entertained with the abundance of things to see and do. Oh, and let’s not forget the local produce! *drool*.
It doesn’t take a genius to suss out why everyone falls in love with this beautiful wee isle.
THINGS TO DO ON ARRAN
Historic Attractions on Arran
Lochranza Castle
Lochranza Castle sits in a truly stunning location, on a skinny peninsula at the mountainous north of the island. This striking structure was once a high-security tower house, with a history which began in the 13th century. You can take your imagination for a wander through the ruins of the castle, though I personally think it is best viewed from outside – particularly when the sun is setting. Red deer roam nearby, as well as sheep, rabbits, oyster catchers and heron. I fell in love with this part of the island during my stay at Lochranza Youth Hostel; to the extent that I was researching the value of the properties which were currently on sale!
- Entry to the castle is free and it is open from 09.30 to 17.30, 1 Apr to 30 Sept
- For more information click here
Brodick Castle
Brodick is the main entry point to Arran, and is a bustling village by island standards. The star attraction is beautiful Brodick Castle; which is impressive enough, without the iconic Goatfell in the background. The current structure was built in 1844, and the walls have many a story to tell. There’s so much to explore within the opulent interior and the vast outdoor area, the castle could easily a warrant a full-day visit. You’ll find woodland walking trails, gorgeous gardens bursting with colour, and the kind of adventure play park I wish had existed when I was a child. Don’t forget to check out the unusual Summer House with its ceiling made of pine cones!
- Entry Cost: Adult – £13.50, Family – £35.00, One Adult Family – £24.00, Concession – £9.50
- For more information, visit the National Trust for Scotland website
Machrie Moor Standing Stones
Six stone circles on a vast moorland, which hold the secrets of the past. Evidence shows that the original stone circles on Machrie Moor were made of timber, before being replaced with these chunks and towering slabs of stone. There will always be a mystery which surrounds the stones and the people who erected them, but we do know that the site has been used for religious rituals and burials. You only need to look at the location’s wild beauty and sublime isolation to understand that these stones had an important purpose. When I’m looking at the remnants of human activity from over 4000 years ago, I find it difficult to comprehend. That’s exactly why it’s so appealing!
- Machrie Moor Standing Stones can be reached on a lovely walk through the countryside and past a derelict farm. The walk takes about 25 minutes each way,
- Find out more on the Historic Scotland website
Isle of Arran Heritage Museum
Learn about all things Isle of Arran related; from the history and geology, to the island way of life. Once a croft and a smiddy, the museum itself can be classed as an exhibit. Inside, there is a broad range of intriguing displays, with various artefacts and remnants from the past; including personal items, the sculpted face of a Bronze Age man, and a model Viking galley. Visitors with family heritage on Arran can even trace their ancestry in the Genealogy section.
- Entry Cost: Adults – £4.00, Children – £2.00, Senior – £3.00, Family – £9.00
- Check out the Arran Heritage Museum website for more info
WALKS ON ARRAN
Arran is a dream for those who enjoy a bit of outdoor exertion. The walking trails are well marked and easy to follow – especially if you use Walk Highlands website to plan your route. I got lost once on Arran, but that was only because I missed the obvious signage along the trail; the detour through squelchy bog and rose thorns was all character building!
Glen Sannox – this is a short and simple walk, with lots of drama! The imposing mountains in Glen Sannox pull you in, and would easily have you convinced you’re back on the mainland in the middle of the Highlands. I particularly enjoyed the novelty of crossing the river on stepping stones to come back. This route is 1.5 miles and can be done in under an hour. For more info click here.
Giants’ Grave and Glenashadale Falls – this wasn’t the walk that I got lost on. I definitely did not get distracted by the bonnie vistas, and miss the turn-off. The Giants’ Graves are what’s left of two Neolithic chambered tombs. The ascent is worth it for views of Holy Isle and the double whammy of cascading action from Glenashadale Falls. Begin at Whiting Bay: the route is 3 miles and can be done in under 2 hours (not including any mishaps). For more info click here.
Arran Coastal Path – this epic walking route follows 65 miles of stunning coastline right around the island. The whole shebang can be tackled in a week-long adventure (which I would love to do), and you can pick ‘n’ mix some shorter sections. The glory of nature will keep you entertained along the way, with the ever-changing scenery and coastline – and the appearance of local wildlife. Keep an eye out for cheeky wee seals and don’t be fooled by the imposter on the rocks at Comrie! For more info click here
Goatfell – the highest peak on Arran, standing a 2,867ft tall. The most popular and accessible route begins from Brodick Castle, and the walk can take anything up to six hours. Despite the accessibility, Goatfell is still a mountain – a Corbett to be exact. As always, be prepared and sensible: wear appropriate clothing and footwear, and take plenty of water and necessary supplies. Summiting this peak is also on my Arran bucket list! For more info click here.
BEACHES ON ARRAN
Arran is blessed with countless bonnie beaches, and they’re all uniquely different. At the north of the island, the beaches come with the some added mountain décor. Sannox Bay has pink-ish sand, while Catacol has smooth pebbles – which look amazing under the translucent water. Catacol is also where you’ll find a row of fisherman’s cottages called The Twelve Apostles. The top window in each house is a different shape, so that fishermen would know which of their wives was sending them a signal by candlelight. Farther round the north, is Imachar which has some striking rock formations and bright blue water.
To the south, you’ll find sweeping golden sands on Blackwaterfoot Beach and pale powdery sand on the popular Kildonan Beach; which also has views of the picturesque Pladda Lighthouse. The sandy beach at Whiting Bay benefits from views of Holy Isle – a close rival to the close-up perspective from Lamlash Beach. Finally, from the sandy beach at Brodick Bay you can spot seals, Goatfell and Brodick Castle peeking out through the trees.
PLACES TO EAT ON ARRAN
Arran is known for its quality island produce, and local businesses proudly showcase these ingredients on their shelves and in their food. Big thumbs up! As well as the suggestions below, I simply have to mention Arran Ice Cream, which you can find in numerous shops and eateries across the island. The ice cream is made with love and milk from ‘happy cows’ in a dairy in Brodick, and it is delicious! Do not feel guilty about indulging in the Scottish Tablet flavour, okay?
It would also be rude – and ridiculous – not to mention the Isle of Arran Distillery. Arran’s single malt is unlike the majority of island whiskies, in that their standard bottling is unpeated. I’m lass who loves smoky whisky, but I’ll never say no to a dram of Arran 14!
Mara Fish Bar & Deli, Corrie – this wee gem is just shy of the sea in the cute village of Corrie. The seafood is all sustainable and sourced from Arran or elsewhere in Scotland. Everything is prepared to a high standard, in a selection of hot and ‘as it comes’ dishes, then served in takeaway-style boxes. After pondering the menu, and almost ordering Thai fishcakes and soup, I decided on a single oyster (just because) and Fillet of Tusk in a Thai curry with Coconut rice. This was a very smart decision, and I left with a new favourite eatery on Arran. Check it out here.
The Sandwich Station, Lochranza – yet another wee island institution, which goes above and beyond what we have come to know as the humble sandwich. There’s a choice of handmade breads from George Grassie of Blackwater Bakehouse, and an interesting selection of equally fresh and delicious fillings – which are all locally sourced. I ordered the sticky, smokey pork belly with wild garlic sauerkraut on walnut bread. Still drooling. Find out more about the Sandwich Station and the struggles that the owners are currently facing in my post about the Lochranza Youth Hostel. Check it out here.
The Old Pier Tearoom, Lamlash – I can only vouch for the scones, but let me tell you… this cheese scone was THE BEST cheese scone I’ve ever had. Believe me, there have been a few. It was chunky, cheesy and oh-so tasty. This was basically the entirely of my picnic for an afternoon on Holy Isle, and it did not disappoint. The rest of the menu also sounded fantastic, and I’m surprised I resisted the temptation to try a huge handmade sausage roll. A friendly and unassuming little café which almost certainly warrants repeat visits. Check it out here.
Cafe Thyme, Machrie – I’m a huge fan of Turkish food, and Arran was the last place I expected to find it. Cafe Thyme at the Old Byre Showroom is owned by a local couple, Lorna and Hamza, who serve a mixture of Scottish and Turkish cuisine. Traditional Turkish pide (a boat-shaped pizza) are handmade and cooked in the same wood burning ovens you’ll find in Turkey. They come with a variety of toppings, including our beloved national dish – haggis! A delicious wee throwback to my holiday in Turkey. Check it out here.
The Drift Inn, Lamlash – the cheese scone from the Old Pier Tearoom was a tough act to follow, but I had a good feeling about this place. Probably something to do with the vibrant mural on the external wall with images of various food products and the message ‘Eat Local. Eat Fresh. Eat Responsibly’. Inside, the chalkboards above the bar detailed where on the island their ingredients are sourced. I loved this focus on Arran’s local produce, and I also loved my juicy Arran lamb burger with Arran cheese. Check it out here.
Arran Cheese Shop, Brodick – Isle of Arran cheese is unbelievably good, and the shop at Home Farm in Brodick is like heaven for cheese-lovers. You can watch the fresh cheese being hand-packaged in wax through a glass window, while trying free samples of the various flavoured cheeses. My favourites are the chilli, chive and smoked garlic; the latter didn’t last long when I brought it home! The shop also stocks the award-winning Arran blue cheese, Wooley’s of Arran oatcakes, and a selection of chutneys and sweet treats from the island. If you’d like a bit of everything, grab a ready made hamper. Check it out here.
HOLY ISLE
Holy Isle is a special place, and you can feel it from the moment you arrive; a lot like Iona. In fact, St Molaise lived on the island towards the end of the 6th century, around the same as St Columba established the abbey on Iona – both had come from Ireland. Holy Isle has a rich spiritual heritage, and today the island is the ‘centre for world peace and health’. The project is led by the current owner of the island Lama Yeshe Rinpoche – a Tibetan Buddhist meditation master – and some volunteers.
There is a programme of workshops and retreats held throughout the year, including mindfulness, meditation and yoga. Visitors can also experience the island independently, by booking a stay in The Centre, which has a variety of rooms (prices start from £55 for a single). You won’t find any supermarkets or modern conveniences on the island, so be sure to take everything you need with you.
Holy Isle is also perfect for a day-trip. The wee ferry from Lamlash only takes around 20 minutes each way, and there is a choice of walking trails on the island, depending on how much time you have. The journey itself was a highlight, with wonderful views of Holy Isle and Arran; it was like watching a tennis match looking ahead and behind! On arrival, we were met by one of the island’s volunteers, who gave us an introduction to Holy Isle and the walking trails. We decided to set off along the coast.
The island is home to some unusual animal species. There are Eriskay ponies, Saanen (Viking) goats and Soay sheep; the only other place you’ll find this breed of sheep is on St Kilda. They all roam freely on the island, so you’ll definitely encounter them along the way. We visited St Molaise Cave – which has Viking carvings on the walls – and a Healing Well outside. Further along, there are beautiful, vibrant Buddhist paintings on the rock faces; not your average discovery on a Scottish Island! I perched on a huge rock by the sea, to soak up the serenity before walking back for a look around the Information Centre – plus complimentary apple juice and biscuits!
- The ferry to Holy Isle costs £12 return
- You can contact Jim for sailing times on 01770 700463 / 07970 771960 or pop in to the ticket office at Lamlash Pier
- For more information visit the Holy Isle website
HOW TO GET TO ARRAN
Ferries to Arran
The main ferry travels between Ardrossan and Brodick – the journey takes under an hour.
- Foot passengers don’t need to pre-book, however spaces for vehicles always sell out at peak times so be sure to book well in advance if you’re driving.
- If you don’t have a car, you can easily reach Ardrossan by train from Glasgow Central Station. The journey takes around 40 minutes and costs £8 each way.
- You can view the Summer 2019 timetable and prices here.
There is a smaller ferry which travels between Claonaig and Lochranza – the journey takes around 30 minutes.
- You can’t pre-book your vehicle onto this ferry, so it’s on a first come first served basis.
- Claonaig is further to reach from Edinburgh or Glasgow, however the drive through the west coast is stunning, and the arrival point is perfect if you’re staying in Lochranza.
- Claonaig isn’t accessible by public transport, so I would recommend the main ferry if you don’t drive.
- You can view the Summer 2019 timetable here.
GETTING AROUND ON ARRAN
Arran is totally doable on public transport thanks to the easy and reliable bus service.
- The various services cover almost everywhere I’ve mentioned above; you will just need to plan your itinerary around the timetable, which can be found here.
- You can purchase the Arran Three Day Rover Ticket for £16.40 or an Arran Megarider for one week which costs £21.50.
Whether you’re in your own vehicle, or you’re on the local bus, the drives around Arran are truly stunning. I loved the coastal roads, but the most dramatic scenery was from Blackwaterfoot to Brodick and Brodick to Lochranza. Mountains, mountains, and more mountains! Does it get any better?
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