Iona is my favourite island in Scotland; my happy place and my escape.
Many people speak of a special feeling or energy that they experience on Iona, myself included.
This island is like a calming embrace for the soul; the beauty and serenity here is unmatched.
To top it off, you don’t need a car, because they’re not allowed anyway (locals only) and this miniature paradise is a breeze to explore on foot or by bike.
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This wee island had an overwhelming impact on me before I’d even set foot upon its shores.
From the top deck of the CalMac ferry, on the short crossing from Fionnphort on Mull, I had my first glimpse of this Scottish paradise.
As if illuminated from the depths, the water was a vivid blue with fluorescent turquoise patches, hugging the rocky shoreline and sections of white sand.
A row of pretty buildings lined the backdrop, as if placed there purely to add to the visual delight.
My unshakeable love for Iona began in that moment.
WHERE IS THE ISLE OF IONA?
Iona is a tiny paradise in Scotland’s Inner Hebrides, just shy of Mull’s southwest coast.
The island is just 3 miles long and 1.5 miles wide.
HOW TO GET TO IONA
Getting to Iona involves a hop across to the Isle of Mull first, which for me, is a bonus! Though it is a long-ish, multi-leg journey from the city, Iona is also very accessible by public transport, and visitors can’t take their cars to the island anyway, so it’s perfect for car-free explorers like me.
I’ve listed the steps by public transport below, but if you’re travelling with your own vehicle, you will still follow the same route. You’ll just need to book your car onto the Mull ferry.
Please note: if you are driving, you will need to leave your car at Fionnphort on Mull. There is free car parking a short walk from the ferry port. View it on Google Maps here. The car park next to the ferry port is Pay & Display.
STEP 1: TRAVEL TO OBAN
BY TRAIN: Oban is connected to the city of Glasgow by the famous West Highland Line.
The scenic train journey from Glasgow Queen Street to Oban takes a max. of 3 hours 15 minutes.
The best priced train fares go on sale 12 weeks in advance; purchase via ScotRail or TheTrainLine.
BY BUS: The service from Glasgow to Oban is operated by Citylink and the journey is approx. 3 hours.
There are two routes; one via Inveraray and the other via Tyndrum. Both are absolutely beautiful journeys!
Tickets usually go on sale around 8 weeks before travel; book more than 48 hours in advance to take advantage of advanced fares.
STEP 2: FERRY FROM OBAN TO CRAIGNURE (MULL)
CalMac Ferries operate the ferry crossing from Oban to the Isle of Mull. The journey takes 50 minutes.
View the timetable here and book your tickets online in advance.
STEP 3: BUS FROM CRIAGNURE TO FIONNPHORT
West Coast Motors operate the service 96 from Craignure to Fionnphort. The journey takes 1 hour + 15 minutes.
View the route & timetable here. You don’t need to pre-book these buses; contactless payment is accepted onboard. Do cross reference the bus timetable with the ferry timetable though to check that there will be a bus waiting at your arrival time.
STEP 4: FERRY FROM FIONNPHORT TO IONA
The final leg of the journey is a quick one – just a 10 minute ferry crossing with CalMac.
This is known as a turn-up-and-go service which you don’t have to pre-book. Simply pay card or cash when you board the ferry.
View the current timetable here.
ISLE OF IONA: MY TOP TIPS
1) BOOK ACCOMMODATION WELL IN ADVANCE
Unsurprisingly for it’s size, Iona’s accommodation options are varied, but they are limited.
Iona sees a lot of repeat visitors who have been escaping to the island for years, as well as those who are visiting for the first time. This means that accommodation is snapped up quickly, especially during the summer months.
I’d be aiming to book at least 6 months in advance and these are my recommended places to stay.
> Iona Pods – modern, comfortable glamping pods on a working croft close to Iona Abbey. There are fire pits, laundry services and separate toilets/showers for those who don’t book an en-suite pod.
> Green Shed Iona – formerly Iona Youth Hostel, this beautiful getaway at the north of the island has three self-catering options: The Slug (sleeps 2), The Studio (sleeps 2), and The Sea Room (sleeps 10).
> Iona Campsite – the most budget friendly option is to bring your own tent. The campsite also has this wee pod for two people which has full use of the campsite’s shared facilities.
> St Columba Hotel – one of the island’s only two hotels located next to Iona Abbey, the St Columba Hotel has sea views from the restaurant and lovely lounge areas, tables outside, and quality food & drink.
> Argyll Hotel – this charming hotel is just a short walk from the ferry and has quirky lounge areas, comfortable rooms, and absolutely amazing food.
2) VISIT IONA ABBEY & NUNNERY
It was on this site, where the restored 13th century abbey sits today, that St Columba established his monastery, following his arrival on the island in 563AD. Iona has been a place of pilgrimage and active worship ever since, known as the ‘birthplace of Christianity’ in Scotland. Whether you are religious or not, I guarantee you will gravitate towards this sacred place.
An extension of the island itself, there is palpable energy here; a calmness and awareness of the site’s significance and the events it has witnessed through the centuries.
Within the abbey, you’ll find a beautiful chapel, a collection of carved stones and Celtic crosses, and a courtyard with ornate cloisters. In the grounds, ancient kings are said to be buried in the graveyard, while St Oran’s Chapel is the island’s oldest standing structure.
On route to the abbey from the ferry port, you will pass the peaceful medieval ruins of the Iona Nunnery; an Augustinian convent and final resting place for noble women.
PURCHASE your tickets to the abbey in advance to guarantee entry, unless you are visiting in winter, where tickets are only available to buy on-site.
CHECK the Historic Scotland website for opening times, prices, and tickets.
3) CLIMB DUN I
The highest point on the island, yet only 333ft above sea level, Dun I may be small, but the views are mighty. To access the hill, walk past Iona Abbey and Iona Pods, looking out for a white sign on your left which marks the beginning of the walk across a field.
Depending on your speed/ability, the ascent takes around 20 minutes, and it can be rocky and muddy underfoot, therefore sensible footwear is essential. The summit of the hill is marked with a cairn and you’re rewarded with a heart-tugging panorama of the island, Staffa & the Treshnish Isles in the distance, and across to mountainous outline of Mull.
READ more about the walk on the Visit Mull & Iona website.
4) EXPLORE THE STUNNING BEACHES
Iona’s beaches are a heavenly sight to behold, from rocky, pebbly shores to the quintessential palette of paradise colours for which the Hebrides are known: white sand, turquoise sea and the sky’s ever-shifting shades of blue and grey.
Given the island’s small size, you’re always close to the coast and only one wander way from discovering your new favourite beach. These are my top four beaches on Iona.
> Traigh Bhan Nam Monach (White Strand of the Monks) – this truly is my favourite beach in the world, located at Iona’s north end. This idyllic beach takes its name from the Monks whose lives gave to a grisly end there at the hands of raiding Vikings. View the location on Google Maps here.
> Bay at the Back of the Ocean – this impressive sweep of sand, shingle and wild flowers can be found at the west of the island, facing into the Atlantic. The walk from the ferry port takes around 25 minutes or you can save time by hiring a bike from Iona Craft Shop.
> Port Ban – popular with wild swimmers, this pristine sandy beach is an absolute dream with clear water sheltered by cliffs on either side. To get there, head north from the Bay at the Back of the Ocean, go through a gate and follow the track towards the beach. Read more here.
> St Columba’s Bay – said to be where St Columba first came ashore on the island in the 6th century, this secluded bay at the south of the island feels a million miles away from the bustle of daily life. Follow the walking route described here.
5) BOOK A BOAT TRIP TO STAFFA
Given the island’s proximity and ease of access to Staffa & the Treshnish Isles, this special adventure is a not-to-be-missed, wish-list experience for anyone visiting the Isle of Iona; even more so during peak puffin season from early May until late July.
Puffins aside, Staffa is a geological wonder, characterised by basalt columns, dizzying cliffs, and the world-famous Fingal’s Cave. Neighbouring Lunga is another uninhabited mecca of seabirds.
> Staffa Tours operate two daily departures of their 3 hour tour to Staffa and one daily departure of their 6 hour tour to Staffa & Lunga from April – August. In September and October, only the 3 hour Staffa tour is available.
> Staffa Trips offer two daily departures of their 3.5 hour trip to Staffa from April – August.
BOOK your boat tour for your first full day on Iona to give yourself back-up days in case the boat trip doesn’t run due to weather.
6) SHOP FOR LOCAL GIFTS & CRAFTS
For such a small island, there are surprisingly good options for a spot of retail therapy, and not just typical tourist ‘tat’. I’m talking unique Iona Wool products and beautiful local gifts and crafts, created by the island’s talented community of artists and makers.
Iona Craft Shop is so wonderfully and colourfully stocked with clothing, homeware, books, gifts and cards, it’s unlikely you’ll emerge again without making a purchase. They also have a coffee machine for a quality caffeine fix.
St Columba Larder is fantastic for picking up picnic and self-catering treats, edible souvenirs for your own kitchen cupboards or a cheeky bottle of St Columba Gin, crafted with botantics from the hotel garden.
Oran Creative Crafts is a community cooperative offering a range of local, hand-made crafts; from candles and knitwear to fused glass and prints. Also located with St Columba’s Steading is Aosdàna, the island’s resident silversmith and Celtic jewellery maker.
7) TREAT YOURSELF TO LOCAL FOOD & DRINK
When it comes to dining options on Iona, it’s quality over quantity. The two top dinner spots are also island’s only two hotels; St Columba Hotel and Argyll Hotel. Both serve fantastic Scottish produce, fresh seafood and home-grown ingredients from their hotel gardens.
St Columba Hotel is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, while Argyll Hotel serves lunch, dinner and Afternoon Tea/scones in-between. Argyll Hotel happens to be my favourite dinner spot in the country. I absolutely love the high quality cuisine and relaxed experience.
For casual daytime options, check out The Rookery at Iona Heritage Centre, where the lovely Jan offers homemade soup, sharing boards, sandwiches and home-baking.
AILIDH, opposite Iona Craft Shop, is the place to go for incredible Hebridean street food: Neapolitan pizza, fresh catch, and tempting sweet treats.
BOOK your dinner reservations in advance to avoid disappointment.
8) GO NORTH FOR SUNSET
Iona’s sunsets are nothing short of spectacular and my favourite place to watch the magic happen is from the sand dunes at the north of the island.
Watch as the sun drops down to the sea and the distant Treshnish Isles become silhouettes on the waves.
Bonus points if you have a wee dram to toast the occasion.
I hope you enjoyed reading about my favourite island in Scotland, Iona.
I’m Kay, by the way; you can read more about me here.
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