Have you explored the Mid Argyll region? If not, it’s time to change that.
Experience a unique and diverse tapestry of natural and mad-made marvels, spanning a mind-bending timeline, from the Neolithic monuments in Kilmartin Glen to the famous Crinan Canal built during the Industrial Revolution, and all the precious environments in-between: rainforests, bogland and coast.
Mid Argyll is under-the-radar and out of the ordinary.
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WHERE IS MID ARGYLL?
Mid Argyll is a very special, yet often overlooked, area within the popular Argyll region.
This precious pocket of Argyll can be found south of Oban, north of Kintyre, and west from Lochgilphead.
MID ARGYLL BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Like many rural areas in Scotland, it might seem tricky to get around Mid Argyll without a car. Bus services can be infrequent (e.g. non-existent on Sundays) but with some advanced planning, timetable studying and encouragement from me, it is entirely possible and enjoyable.
Oban and Lochgilphead are the two transport hubs with bus connections into Mid Argyll.
Travel to Oban from Glasgow by ScotRail train or Citylink bus.
From Oban, take the West Coast Motors service 23 or 423 south towards Ardrishaig.
Travel to Lochgilphead from Glasgow by Citylink bus.
From Lochgilphead, take the West Coast Motors 425 or 426 towards Tayvallich and Crinan or travel north to Kilmartin on the service 23 and 423 mentioned above.
Top tip: download the West Coast Motors app. to explore the route maps, check timetables and book your tickets.
As always, these journeys are all part of the adventure!
where to stay in mid argyll
Find accommodation on one of the bus routes and use this as a your base for your day trips to the locations featured in this post.
Ideally, you want somewhere with an on-site restaurant for your evening meals, unless you’re happy to self-cater and carry the necessary food supplies.
The Horseshoe, Kilmichael Glassary – a self-contained cottage for two at a cosy 18th century village inn, located just outside Lochgilphead and close to the Crinan Canal.
Crinan Hotel, Crinan – a seafront, family-run hotel at Crinan Harbour. Old-school luxury vibes and high-end dining.
Kilmartin Hotel, Kilmartin – full of character with creaky floorboards, lovely food and warm hospitality.
Kadore Yacht – boat accommodation in the Crinan Canal. This quirky Airbnb is on my wish-list for a future visit.
MID ARGYLL: THINGS TO SEE & DO
From your chosen base, explore the Mid Argyll region by bus, choosing 1 or 2 locations per day from my list of suggestions below. Always check the bus timetables in advance.
1) ExPLORE THE CRINAN CANAL
Bus stops: Ardrishaig, Mid Argyll Swimming Pool Lochgilphead, Cairnbaan, Bellanoch, Crinan.
Crinan Canal is a peaceful and picturesque 9 mile waterway which travels from Crinan in the west to Ardrishaig in the east, connecting the Sound of Jura with Loch Gilp & Loch Fyne.
Completed in 1809, this impressive feat of Victorian engineering was built as an alternative to the long and often treacherous route around the Mull of Kintyre, providing safe passage for vessels travelling between the Western Isles and the Clyde Estuary.
Today, this scenic waterway welcomes around 2,000 boats every year, while the canal-side paths are perfect for a day of walking or cycling; lined with lush greenery, brambles and flowers in the spring/summer months.
Crinan Canal is fondly nicknamed ‘Britain’s most beautiful shortcut’ and it’s easy to see why.
Walk the full 9 miles – passing pretty cottages, bridges and locks. Here is a route description which you can follow in either direction; walk one way and take the bus the other way.
Eat lunch at Crinan Hotel Seafood Bar – sit in the separate quirky bar area if you can. I can recommend the Cullen Skink, mussels and fries!
Wander into Crinan Wood – an enchanting patch of temperate Scottish rainforest, home to rare species of lichens and mosses. Look out for the bracken covered ruins of ‘New York’; the old canal workers’ cottages, allegedly named after York Building Company.
Book a boat trip with Venture West – look out for wildlife and visit the famous Corryvreckhan whirlpool, or take a full day trip to the islands.
2) DISCOVER PREHISTORIC GRAFFITI AT CAIRNBAAN
Bus stop: Cairnbaan
Just outside Lochgilphead, the small village of Cairnbaan sits on the Crinan Canal.
A short stroll from Cairnbaan Hotel (which is now sadly closed), an easy-to-miss wooden sign marks the path towards some remarkable remnants of the past. The sign reads ‘Cairnbaan Rock Art’.
The upwards climb through the shadowy forest is a prelude to your mysterious end destination.
Contained within metal fencing, a series of rocky outcrops are covered in cup and ring marks. Continue past the first fenced area (muddy/boggy in parts) to the further outcrops to see the most impressive carvings.
Around 5,000 years old, the meaning of these mind-blowing markings is unknown.
Read more about Cairnbaan Rock Art here.
3) LUNCH & SHOPPING IN LOCHGILPHEAD
Bus stop: Lochgilpead Lochnell Street
As the name suggestions, Lochgilphead sits at the head of Loch Gilp, and serves as a transport hub in the Mid Argyll area. Lochgilphead is where the Citylink bus from Glasgow connects with all of the locations recommended in this post.
Rather than just passing through on route to your next destination however, I recommend stopping in Lochgilphead for a couple of hours to support and experience the town’s lovely local businesses.
Lunch – my go to is Smiddy Bistro, a quaint and welcoming wee establishment, tucked away down Smithy Lane. The fresh, homemade food ranges from soup, quiches and vibrant salads to hot, hearty comfort food and the impossible-to-resist cake table.
Local shops – for gorgeous Scottish gifts, souvenirs & designs can be found in The Square Peg and Bluestone Gift Shop, while West Coast Home is the place for homeware,
Food supplies – head to Marmadale Deli for lots of delicious delights and Bee Sweet for colourful sweet treats and ice-cream.
Supermarkets – there is a COOP and Tesco Express in the town, but I do encourage supporting the smaller businesses if you can.
4) VISIT ARGYLL BEAVER CENTRE
Bus stop: Barnluasgan outside the small Visitor Information hut. Argyll Beaver Centre is a 0.7 mile walk from there (follow the signs and wee wooden beavers)
In 2009, the 5 year Scottish Beaver Trial was launched in Knapdale Forest; the first legal release of beavers in the UK for over 400 years! The trial was a great success and the beavers are thriving; there are now 11 families happily at home here.
The off-grid, eco-friendly Argyll Beaver Centre opened in 2017. Managed by Heart Of Argyll Wildlife Organisation, and now under community ownership, the centre is a place to learn not only about the beavers, but the special natural environment and abundant wildlife in the area.
While the beavers can only be spotted at dawn and dusk, there are some comical Night Vision videos of them at the centre, and there is plenty evidence of their clever antics building dams and lodges on Loch Barnluasgan.
Book a guided beaver walk from Argyll Beaver Centre to explore the forest and wetland trails with a local wildlife expert. We learned so much from Stephen and Pete at the centre.
Walk from Argyll Beaver Centre to Bellanoch Viewpoint (0.5 miles) for heart-tugging views and layers of natural and human history, all in one panorama; from Kilmartin Glen and Dunadd Fort to the Crinan Canal and Moine Mhor National Nature Reserve.
5) EXPERIENCE THE WONDERS OF KILMARTIN GLEN
Bus stop: Kilmartin
Mid Argyll is home to one of the most fascinating and historically important areas in the whole country; the prehistoric landscape of Kilmartin Glen.
The best way to appreciate and explore this incredible place is to begin your visit at the recently renovated Kilmartin Museum, then follow The Monument Trail from the museum to the various Bronze Age and Neolithic sites in the glen.
The monuments include a ‘linear cemetery’ of burial cairns, towering standing stones and mysterious stone circles. There’s also a walking trail to a glorious medieval castle ruin for those who have time for an overnight stay in the village.
For all the details, check out my separate post on visiting Kilmartin Glen & Museum by bus.
6) SEAFOOD & SEA VIEWS IN TAYVALLICH
Bus stop: Tayvallich
This beautiful, tranquil fishing village is huddled around a sheltered bay on Loch Sween; a wee coastal oasis on the Knapdale peninsula.
Locally caught seafood is best enjoyed at an outside table by the sea at The Tayvallich Inn. I can personally vouch for the seafood linguine which is one of the best I’ve ever tasted!
Tayvallich Café is another pretty eatery on the waterfront, serving lunches and home-baking; I went here after my seafood lunch for coffee and cake.
The location and lunch options are reason alone to visit, but Tayvallich is also the departure point for the Jura Passenger Ferry (March – September) for those wishing to extend their adventure to the wild Isle of Jura for either a day trip or a longer stay on the island.
This post is sponsored by Wild about Argyll. As always, all opinions, recommendations and chaotic chatter are honest and completely my own