Inverness is a small city with a lot to offer. Known worldwide thanks to its proximity to the famous Loch Ness and the ‘Outlander effect’, there’s so much more to Inverness than legendary monsters and fictional time travel.
Nestled in the heart of the Highlands on the banks of the River Ness, Inverness boasts the best of both worlds; a compact city centre and a vast scenic playground within close reach. Together they provide a superabundance of cultural sights, outdoor attractions, historic gems and a thriving food & drink scene.
Inverness can be a city break or a base for epic adventures. How about both?
My visits to Inverness have been on my own travels and on paid campaigns with Visit Inverness Loch Ness, Inverness Taxis and Citylink.
This post contains affiliate links from which I might make a small commission at no extra cost to you.
The journey to Inverness was like travelling backwards through the seasons: sunshine and golden spring-like fields in Fife and Perthshire, with bright white snowy mountains in the distance, followed by full-on immersion in winter wonderland conditions in the Cairngorms.
I stepped outside Inverness Station just in time for a sudden downpour but from lunchtime onwards it was all blue skies and sharp, cold air. Inverness Castle was looking particularly vibrant and bonnie under such conditions!
It’s been so lovely reacquainting myself with this wee city and it’s scenic surrounds.
(my first trip back to Inverness after lockdown, 2022)
WHERE IS INVERNESS?
Inverness is a small city in the Scottish Highlands. ‘Inver’ means ‘at the mouth of the river’, therefore as the name suggests, Inverness sits at the mouth of the River Ness, to the east of Loch Ness.
West of Inverness, you’ll find the Moray Firth, Speyside and Aberdeenshire.
Inverness is the starting and finishing point for the popular North Coast 500 driving route.
GETting TO & exploring Inverness
Inverness is a transport hub with multiple train and bus connections, making it the perfect destination or base location for car-free explorers. The city is easy to explore on foot and you can also hire a bike from Inverness Bike Hire or Ticket to Ride. There are multiple tour operators too, offering day tours & multi-day tours to a variety of destinations (recommendations further down).
If you are travelling with your own vehicle, the area around and beyond Inverness is a paradise for road-trippers. Just be sure to book accommodation with on-site parking, as street parking in the city is scarce; alternatively, you can pay to park in Old Town Rose Street Car Park which is very central.
TRAINS TO INVERNESS
The rail operators which serve Inverness are ScotRail, LNER (I highly recommend their First Class option as a treat) and the Caledonian Sleeper which travels overnight all the way to London.
> Edinburgh – Inverness takes up to 3 hours and 45 minutes, passing through Perthshire and the Cairngorms.
If you’d like to break up the journey and spend a night in Perthshire, check out my blog post on Dunkeld.
> Aberdeen to Inverness takes around 2 hours and 15 minutes, travelling through Speyside and Moray.
If you’d like to hop off somewhere on this route, visit Elgin and it’s medieval cathedral or the beautiful beach town of Nairn.
> Take a scenic rail journey north from Inverness; check out the Far North Line which travels all the way up to Thurso or Wick and The Kyle Line which goes northwest to Kyle of Lochalsh.
BUSES TO INVERNESS
Citylink and Stagecoach are the two main bus operators which serve Inverness.
> Edinburgh to Inverness and Glasgow to Inverness (Citylink) take around 3 hours and 40/50 minutes; popular stops on these routes are Perth, Pitlochry and Aviemore.
> Inverness to Fort William (Citylink) takes 2 hours and 5 minutes; the route goes along Loch Ness.
> Inverness to Portree, Isle of Skye (Citylink) takes 3 hours and 20 minutes.
> Inverness to Culloden Battlefield (Stagecoach) takes around 25 minutes.
> Inverness to Scrabster Ferry Terminal for Orkney (Stagecoach) takes 3 hours 40 minutes.
DRIVING TO INVERNESS
Use Google Maps for navigation when you’re driving but add on extra time if you’re not familiar with the roads or you’re not used to driving on the other side of the road.
Some visitors will fly from London straight to Inverness with easyJet, or take the train from one of the cities, before picking up a hire car in Inverness. This allows you to experience the relaxing journey of the train and the freedom of having your own vehicle.
You can pick up a hire car in Inverness and drop it off in another location e.g. Edinburgh or Glasgow. Nationwide operators who offer this option include Arnold Clark, Enterprise and Sixt.
TOP THINGS TO DO IN INVERNESS CITY CENTRE
1) LOSE YOURSELF IN MAGICAL LEAKEY’S BOOKSHOP
This beautiful bookshop is a wonderland for bookworms. Step inside to discover an enchanting escape, which exudes charm from every book and nook.
The signature scent of old book pages stimulates the senses immediately upon entry, before your eyes have had a chance to marvel at the surroundings. Hundreds of second hand books flood the interior with colour, while the stained-glass windows flashback to the building’s former existence as an 18th century Gaelic church.
Owner Charles Leakey has created a spellbinding place, which feels far removed from the modern world as we know it.
VISIT the website for more information
2) BOOK A TOUR WITH WALK INVERNESS
Cath Findlay is the lovely lady behind this local tour company. With a background in adult education, coaching and public speaking, Cath is a wonderful guide and a true ambassador for Inverness.
The walking tour takes in the city’s main sites and statues, as well as an obligatory walk along the River Ness. Being an Inverness local, Cath certainly knows her stuff, and personalises the commentary with stories about her childhood and ancestors.
Even more exciting is that Cath has just launched a new Food & Walking tour to celebrate the city’s fantastic local produce, sweet treats and craft beverages.
Cath wears a red tartan hat with feathers poking out the top, so you’ll have no trouble finding her!
BOOK a tour with Cath here
3) BROWSE INVERNESS MUSEUM & ART GALLERY
The Scottish Highlands boast some of the most unique and breath-taking landscapes in the world, and the history ranges from fascinating to heart-breaking.
Inverness Museum explains the mind-boggling geology of the Highlands, and does a sterling job of summarising the significant periods in Scotland’s history; from Neolithic settlers and the Picts, to the Vikings and Jacobites.
The exhibits feature easy-to-digest information, and excellent artefacts which make the past somewhat tangible. Thanks to places like this, I feel like I get to know my country better with every trip I go on. This museum is well worth a meander.
ENTRY to the museum is free. Check the opening hours here.
4) RIVERSIDE WALK TO NESS ISLANDS
If you fancy a scenic stroll through the forest, you don’t even need to leave the city. Inverness has a group of mini-isles right in the River Ness, which are connected to the embankment by pretty Victorian suspension bridges.
Walking around Ness Islands, you’ll forget you’re even in a city at all. Expect towering trees, a Nessie-carved log, and the soothing sound of the fast flowing river.
The walk from Chapel Street in the city centre to Ness Islands takes around 30 minutes and I recommend following one side of the river to get there and returning via the other side for a lovely, leisurely loop.
Stop for a coffee at Ness Walk Kiosk near Inverness Cathedral.
5) CYCLE THE CALEDONIAN CANAL
The Great Glen is a major fault line which slices through Scotland from Fort William to Inverness, with four lochs in between: Loch Linnhe, Loch Lochy, Loch Oich and Loch Ness.
In the 19thcentury, the Caledonian Canal was constructed to connect the lochs and allow safe passage for ships travelling from east to west, or vice versa. Designed by Thomas Telford, one of Scotland’s greatest engineers, the canal is as beautiful as it is practical.
Watching boats and barges come through the system of locks makes for excellent viewing and the canalside is perfect for cycling.
I cycled right down to Clachnaharry Sea Lock, crossing over the railway swing bridge which still has a classic signal box in operation.
As soon as I entered that last section of the canal, facing into the Beauly Firth, I was hit by a wall of wind and the smell of the sea – along with views of Kessock Bridge in one direction, and snowy mountains in the other. Amazing!
HIRE a bike from Ticket to Ride in Bellfield Park or Inverness Bike Hire on Church Street.
6) TOUR Uilebhest Distillery & Brewery
Opened in 2023, this sustainable and slightly sinister (only the branding!) new drinks producer is crafting artisan whisky and beer a stone’s throw from the River Ness.
Gaelic for ‘monster’, Uilebhiest’s branding and vibes capture the dark elements of Scottish stories and folklore; their artwork was created by Ken Taylor, famed for this illustrated posters for Metallica, The Rolling Stones and Pearl Jam.
BOOK a Discovery Tour to learn all about this small team’s big plans, or simply head straight to the bar for a beer.
7) WANDER THROUGH INVERNESS BOTANIC GARDENS
A tropical oasis in the Scottish Highlands, Inverness Botanic Gardens is one of the city’s lesser-known attractions but is well worth a wee wander.
The peaceful, plant-filled gardens and greenhouses are a treat for the senses; a fusion of colours, smells, heat and beauty. Entry is free and the attraction is open 7 days a week.
I found myself in the Tropical House during a sudden downpour; the warmth, sanctuary and sound of the heavy rain was magical!
READ more about the gardens, the plant specimens and the café etc. here.
TOP THINGS TO DO BEYOND INVERNESS
8) VISIT CULLODEN BATTLEFIELD
Getting there: Drive (15 mins) take the Stagecoach bus (22 mins, £2.40 each way) or book a taxi with Inverness Taxis
Anyone with an interest in history or who wishes to pay their respects to the fallen clans should visit Culloden. Less than 6 miles from Inverness, Culloden Battlefield is the site of the last battle fought on British soil; the final clash between the Jacobites and the British government, and one that would change the Highland way of life forever.
The Visitor Centre brings the history to life through excellent, comprehensive displays told from both sides; a timeline of events through this complex period, the brutal battle itself, and the aftermath of the Jacobite defeat. There is an immersive 360-degree film too.
Out on the battlefield, you’ll find a series of flags, information boards and memorial cairns to the clans.
ALLOW around 2 hours for your visit. Culloden is far from just a ‘photo stop’. Take your time and do it justice. Find out more here.
9) MONSTER & HISTORY HUNTING ON LOCH NESS
There’s no judgement here from me if you have an urge to go in search of the legendary ‘Nessie’ in Loch Ness. It’s a touristy novelty and I’m a big fan of boat trips in general, so why not?
Loch Ness is a vast and mysterious body of water, steeped in both history and folklore, and fringed by stunning scenery and historic castle ruins.
Jacobite Cruises offer boat trips from Dochgarroch Lock, just outside Inverness. If you don’t have your own transport, book this 3-hour tour option which includes coach transport from Inverness Bus Station, a 1-hour cruise of Loch Ness, and 1-hour ashore at Urquhart Castle.
10) DOLPHIN SPOTTING AT CHANONRY POINT
Getting there: Drive (30 mins), take the Stagecoach bus 26/26A to Rosemarkie (32mins then walk 1.2 miles) or book a taxi with Inverness Taxis.
Chanonry Point is a finger of land on the Black Isle, which extents out into the Moray Firth. Not only does it provide a bonnie vista out over the water, it is also a prime position for dolphin watching.
What’s unique about the experience, is the proximity with which you can see these super-cute creatures. In fact, there is no better place in the country to see bottlenose dolphins. I was sceptical about spotting any at all, but the rumours are true! I was mesmerised watching a pod of them playing around so close to where I was standing.
The best time to spot the dolphins is April – August during the rise tide; approx 1 hour after low tide.
CHECK the tide time for Chanonry Point here.
11) DISCOVER the moray coast
Getting there: Drive (as far as you like), take the train to Nairn (20 mins), take two Stagecoach buses to Findhorn or take the train to Elgin (45 mins) and catch a the Stagecoach bus to Lossiemouth.
In my opinion, one of Scotland’s most underrated areas, this picturesque coastline runs east from Inverness into Moray Speyside then Aberdeenshire. Along the way, there are countless bonnie beaches, patches of forest and the most charming fishing villages and historic harbours.
Nairn – discover the beautiful Nairn Beach and grab street food from Strathnairn Beach Cafe.
Findhorn – follow the horseshoe bay round to Findhorn Beach with it’s colourful beach huts. Have lunch at Kimberley Inn.
Lossiemouth – walk along East Beach, wander around the harbour and have lunch at Harbour Lights.
WHERE TO EAT IN INVERNESS
The food and drink scene in Inverness has never been better, thanks to the area’s amazing producers and Highland hospitality. TOP TIP: support independent businesses over familiar chains and always make dinner reservations in advance.
> XOKO – you will find me here on every single visit to Inverness for glorious artisan sweet & savoury pastries, sourdough and cakes; all lovingly homemade on-site in the open plan kitchen. Grab a selection for a picnic on the go or sit in for breakfast/lunch and coffee.
> The Victorian Market – this charming, historic thoroughfare is worth a visit anyway but even more so since the addition of the Market Hall, filled with a variety of Highland food vendors. My favourites are Redshank for Scottish street food, Salt ‘N’ Fire for colourful, healthy plant based delights and Bad Girl Bakery for sweet treats. I still have a few to try!
> PERK – now an Inverness institution thanks to their famous doughnuts, this cute café serves toasties, barista coffee and outrageously good doughnuts by day (specials change every month), and beautifully crafted cocktails by night. Biscoff espresso martini, anyone?
> Velocity Café – a local social enterprise, bike shop and sustainable café, Velocity serves vegetarian and vegan food for breakfast and lunch; epic egg dishes to start the day, plus soup, salads, wraps, bagels and sweet things.
> Hou Hou Mei – one of the city’s newer additions, and already hugely popular, Hou Hou Mei (which translates as ‘very very yummy’) is an Asian fusion restaurant, where modern meets traditional. The dumplings are delicious and the Chicken Kindo main course was my favourite!
> The Kitchen Brasserie – a solid choice for a special lunch or dinner right on the River Ness, this glass-fronted, family-run restaurant focuses on high quality Scottish produce. If there’s venison on the menu, this is the place to try it!
> Inverness Coffee Roasting Company – if a high-quality caffeine fix is what you’re after, check out this small Espresso Bar & Bean Shop on Chapel Street. A complimentary cube of Scottish tablet is a very welcome accompaniment to a fresh coffee.
PUBS, BARS & LIVE MUSIC IN INVERNESS
There are plenty pubs and multiple music nights in Inverness; more than I’ve had the chance to visit. These are my favourite spots.
> The Hootananny – for guaranteed nightly live music, this legendary local watering hole is the place to go. Expect hearty Scottish pub food and a great atmosphere. View the lively line-up of musicians and events on their website.
> MacGregor’s Bar – another great traditional pub with live music, local craft beers, classic Scottish food with a twist (haggis bhaji and ‘blaggis fries’) and whisky tasting events every night from Monday – Friday (April – October).
> Black Isle Bar – brought to you by Black Isle Brewery, located less than 7 miles away, check out this bustling bar for local, organic beer (beer flights available) and wood-fired pizzas topped with garlic, herbs and salad homegrown in the brewery garden.
> The Malt Room – this wee whisky bar is a true hidden gem, tucked away down an alley off Church Street. It’s relaxed and intimate; the perfect place to chat to the friendly, knowledgeable staff and sample a few drams.
TOURS FROM INVERNESS
Whether you’re car-free or just fancy taking a break from driving, organised tours are a brilliant way to explore multiple locations or attractions. As a former tour guide, I might be biased, but you will learn SO much from your tour guide; local facts, history, myths and legends – with a healthy dose of Scottish humour1
Highland Explorer TOURS
> Moray Coast, Wildlife & Speyside Whisky Tour for a lovely varied trip away from the popular tourist trail.
> Isle of Skye & Eilean Donan Castle day tour
If Skye is high on your list, and you have more time to spare, consider doing the less rushed 3 Day Isle of Skye & Jacobite Steam Train tour.
RABBIE’S TOURS
> Glen Affric, Culloden & Clava Cairns for the perfect mix of Highland scenery and Jacobite history.
If you don’t have a car, but you would still like to experience sections of the stunning North Coast 500 road-trip route, check out these tours:
> Torridon, Applecross & Eilean Donan Castle
> Dunrobin Castle & Easter Ross
There are also multi-day options which travel up to the Orkney Islands and the Outer Hebrides:
> 3 Day Lewis, Harris & Outer Hebrides
where to stay in INVERNESS
> Bazpackers – small and friendly hostel close to Inverness Castle with a wood-burning stove, free tea & coffee and private rooms with shared bathrooms.
> Black Isle Bar & Rooms – across the street from the train station, this independent hostel has spacious dorm rooms, spotless bathrooms and the benefit of wood-fired pizza and local beer directly next door.
> Ardtentorrie Guest House – stay with local hosts in this highly rated guest house, complete with a hot cooked breakfast.
> River Ness Hotel – one of the city’s newest hotels; very central, modern throughout with welcoming staff.
> AC By Marriott – comfortable and contemporary new hotel with an excellent buffet breakfast.
> Best Western Inverness Palace Hotel – a large, resort-style hotel right on the River Ness with spacious rooms, a bar, restaurant, swimming pool and spa.
> Ness Walk – this 5* hotel is characterised by its stylish and luxurious interiors, flooded with natural light; afternoon tea and fine dining are available in the on-site restaurant.
I hope you that you found this helpful and enjoyed reading about the things to do in Inverness.
I’m Kay, by the way; you can read more about me here.
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