Would you like to visit a beautiful fishing town in the Northwest Highlands?
Ullapool is a friendly, each to reach, and seriously visually rewarding destination. Plus, you don’t need a car to get there. It is a place to bike, hike, swim or chill; indulge in sunshine pints, seafood and sweet treats; experience the heavenly hybrid of mountains and sea.
I went to Ullapool in search of seaside calm, delicious scran and slow adventure. I found all of these things, and part of myself, too. These are my top things to do in Ullapool.
This blog was written as part of a paid campaign with Hostelling Scotland
The once quiet fishing village of Ullapool is now a popular and widely-known tourist destination, predominately mentioned as the port and gateway to Lewis & Harris, as well as a stop on the North Coast 500 road-trip route and the challenge long-distance walk, The Cape Wrath Trail.
You know what I think? Ullapool deserves recognition all on its own. I travelled on public transport for a soulful, seaside escape, focusing exclusively on the village and its immediate surroundings. In doing so, I found that Ullapool is so much than just a pitstop, fuel stop or port for the ferry.
Don’t just pass through: slow down, stay for a few days, and just be.
3 interesting facts about ullapool
> The name Ullapool derives from Norse meaning ‘Ulla’s steading’: Ulla was likely to be a person who had a farm there.
> The village you see today didn’t exist until 1788: it was commissioned by the British Fisheries as a planned fishing village. Ullapool and its people were at the mercy of the volatile fishing industry through the centuries, and while there are still fishing boats to this day, tourism is what now drives the economy.
> During the Highland Clearances in 1773, The Hector immigration ship left from near where Ullapool now is and sailed down Loch Broom on its voyage to Nova Scotia, where the people had been (falsely, as it turned out) promised land and a year’s worth of provisions. These people were some of the Scots settlers in Canada.
WHERE IS ULLAPOOL?
Ullapool is a fishing village in the Wester Ross region of the Northwest Highlands, 58 miles from Inverness.
From the shores of Lochbroom to the mighty mountains in every direction, the location is absolutely stunning.
HOW TO GET TO ULLAPOOL
Ullapool is easy to reach on public transport from Inverness and it’s even possible to visit as a day trip. To explore the surrounding area/North Coast 500 or to head across to the Outer Hebrides, a hiring car is advisable.
ULLAPOOL BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Citylink operates the bus service from Ullapool to Inverness. View the timetable here.
The journey time is around 1 hour, 30 minutes.
Book your return bus ticket to Ullapool at least 48 hours in advance to save money and guarantee your seat on the bus. Ullapool is the ferry port for Lewis & Harris, so the bus can get really busy during peak season.
The bus stops at Ullapool Pier in the centre of the village; a short walk along Shore Street to Ullapool Youth Hostel and close to the village amenities.
GETTING TO INVERNESS
> ScotRail train from Edinburgh, Glasgow, or Aberdeen – the journey takes 3 hours 45 minutes from Edinburgh and the best priced fares go on sale 12 weeks in advance.
> Citylink bus from Edinburgh, Glasgow or the Isle of Skye – the direct bus from Edinburgh takes around the same time as the train. Book tickets in advance on the Citylink website.
ullapool youth hostel
Ullapool Youth Hostel was the base for my slow adventure. The hostel sits on Ullapool’s picturesque Shore Street overlooking the waterfront: one of the best locations of any accommodation in the village!
Inside, there is large nautical-themed lounge, dining area, and self-catering kitchen with sea views, as well as a separate quiet lounge – which is dog friendly too. Free tea and coffee is available in the kitchen, you just need to buy milk or check in the ‘free food’ shelf in the fridge to see if anyone has left a carton.
The Reception area has a series of noticeboards displaying all the local walks, attractions and places to eat etc. One of the lovely team are on Reception from 16.30 (check-in time) until 22.00. The hostel is licensed if you fancy a wee wine or bottle of beer and they also sell snacks and toiletries/items that people commonly forget to pack.
I was delighted to discover the hostel has a Drying Room, which was a saviour for drying off my clothes after getting caught in the rain and my swimming stuff after a wee dip: I actually sat on the bench for a couple of minutes to warm myself up!
From the window in my private triple room, I watched the play of light across Loch Broom and the mountains which surround it: the rain, clouds, and sunbeams were in a constant state of flux. I was happy there, so close to the sea, and comfortable in my own room.
The shared bathrooms/showers were sparkly clean and I thoroughly enjoyed my conversations with the ladies who were on a Geology tour of the area. Don’t be put off by Ullapool YOUTH Hostel, it welcomes all ages: there were walking groups, motor bikers, solo travellers and families.
The hostel has dorm rooms, family rooms, and privates rooms with en-suite bathrooms.
My Top 10 Things to do in Ullapool
1) Climb Ullapool Hill
Ullapool Hill is one of the best wee walks I’ve done in Scotland. The trail is steep in parts but easy underfoot, and within hardly any time at all, you’re rewarded with breathtaking bird’s-eye vistas of the village, ferry port, narrow sea loch and shadowy mountains.
I followed this route up the hill then back down through the forest, but you can extend the walk to include Loch Achall, which you can see when you reach the top of the hill.
If you would like to do a guided group walk, climb or scramble, check out Mackenzie Mountaineering. This is a great option for anyone who doesn’t have a car to reach the starting points for some of the nearby hikes: you can also hire a guide for a private tour.
2) GO FOR BRUNCH AT CULT Café
Ahead of my visit, several of my readers name-dropped this place as an essential way to start the day and I now understand why. Opened in 2021, this New Zealand inspired café serves up an interesting menu of beautiful brunch dishes, smoothies, home-bakes and outstanding coffee: a vibe and standard you’d expect to find in a city.
Try the smoked salmon, potato cakes & hollandaise or the award-winning Lorne sausage in a full breakfast or on a roll with egg. The oaty caramel traybake is a must with coffee!
Follow Cult Café on Facebook or Instagram; posts are guaranteed to make your stomach rumble!
3) explore the coast by boat
My go-to activity in any coastal location is to hop on board the nearest boat and in an area of such remarkable natural beauty, the views from the water are guaranteed to knock your wee socks off. There are a couple of boat trip options in Ullapool, neither of which I was able to experience due to high winds at sea: just another excuse to return!
> Seascape Expeditions – a high-speed RIB adventure to The Summer Isles or Loch Broom and Isle Martin.
> Shearwater Cruises – a more leisurely boat cruise around The Summer Isles archipelago.
4) FEAST ON FRESH CATCH AT THE SEAFOOD SHACK
No trip to Ullapool would be complete without a visit to the legendary Seafood Shack. Owners Fenella and Kirsty wanted the area’s fresh seafood to stay local, and in 2016 they made their seafood street-food dream a reality.
Thanks to their passion and close connections to the fishing industry, their beloved catering trailer is now one of the best places to try fresh seafood *in the country*. Feast on fresh shellfish, the ever-popular haddock wrap, Ullapool Smokehouse smoked salmon and sea trout, and frequently changing special dishes.
To top it off, the girls have even published their own book, Seafood Shack Book, Food and Tales from Ullapool featuring their favourite recipes and stories from the local fisherman.
Order directly from their website here to receive a signed copy and follow them on Instagram here.
5) Coffee & Cake at Tea by the Sea
On Shore Street, just a short stroll from Ullapool Youth Hostel, sits a charming wee tearoom and colourful giftshop, Tea by the Sea. There was no way I was making it out of this place without making a purchase, and I returned to the hostel with a puffin-themed make-up bag, a coffee and the best carrot cake I’ve tasted in my life.
You know you’ve walked away with a very respectable wedge of cake when the wee box feels heavy and the icing is thick. Delicious!
6) BROWSE THE BOOKSHOPS
Instead of taking a book with you, or ordering from online giants such an Amazon, hold off until you get there and support Ullapool’s independent bookshops. Despite being a relatively small settlement, Ullapool is blessed with two lovely bookshops, providing even more incentive – and reading material – to slow down and allow yourself the time to get lost in a good book.
> The Ullapool Bookshop – big, bright and just up the hill from the ferry terminal on Quay Street, this well-stocked bookshop is open all year round and sells gifts, cards and maps too.
> The Ceilidh Place Bookshop – a small and surprising find, with an excellent selection of books, in the same building as the bar, restaurant and event space.
7) DINNER & LIVE MUSIC AT THE CEILIDH PLACE
The Ceilidh Place came highly recommended by Adrian at Ullapool Youth Hostel and I enjoyed my meal and the atmosphere so much I went back the following night: it is a safe and satisfying choice for dinner in the village. I can personally vouch for the venison burger and sticky toffee pudding.
As the name suggests, The Ceilidh Place is also a venue for music and events. Find out what’s on during your visit here.
8) WALKING TOUR WITH ULLAPOOL TOURS
Learning the history of Ullapool, and how it came to be, gives you a strong sense of place and time, and allows you to get to know this seaside village beyond its good looks. Ullapool Tours offer group walking tours around the village (£6 per person) on Wednesdays and Sundays during the summer months.
My trip was just ahead of the season, so I booked a private tour with the lovely Alex, who came armed with her incredible knowledge and a series of laminated images and posters for reference. I left the tour full of new facts and with a copy of the wee This is Ullapool book written by Alex and her best friend.
Check out the tours on offer in the village and beyond here.
9) go for a wee dip in lochbroom
Directly across the street from Ullapool Youth Hostel, is a set of steps down to the wee pebbly beach on Loch Broom. The stunningly clear water, shimmering under the sun, was too inviting to ignore, and I soon found myself submerged, swimming and reaping the benefits of the cold water: all the blood-flowing, head-clearing, energy-surging magic.
Afterwards, I scurried barefoot back into the hostel and straight for the Drying Room to warm up and dry my wet swimwear, followed by a cup of tea and a hot shower. What a buzz!
10) DIY PACKED LUNCH FROM WEST COAST DELI
There is absolutely no need to settle for a basic sandwich when West Coast Delicatessen is around. I’m a lover of local produce, posh condiments and well-executed sandwiches, so this place was a non-negotiable. The menu features toasties, salads, pies, sandwiches and home-baked treats.
I opted for a wholegrain deli roll generously filled with Great Glen Charcuterie venison salami, cheese and redcurrant jelly. The perfect lunch for my cycle to Rhue Lighthouse.
11) CYcLE TO RHUE LIGHTHOUSE
I have such a fondness for lighthouses: the unique structures, the dramatic locations and the important part they play in seafaring safety. When I found out Rhue Lighthouse is just 3.5 miles from the village centre, I hopped on an eBike from Ullapool Bike Hire and off I went!
Placing a modern road on top of an ancient, undulating landscape means that there is an outrageous hill to tackle on the route out of the village: the bike’s ‘turbo mode’ was swiftly activated!
The short cycle was rewarded by a bonnie beach, rockpool reflections, a wee octagonal lighthouse and the most incredible views, made all the more atmospheric by the shifting light and clouds.
The same company also offer Stand Up Paddle Board hire from the wee hut at the harbourfront; it was too windy on my trip for this water-based fun, unfortunately. Next time!
12) WANDER ALONG TO ULLAPOOL RIVER
If you simply breeze through Ullapool in the passing, you’re likely to miss the pretty patch of woodland along the river which flows from Loch Achall down to the sea.
During my visit in May, the forest wore a blanket of bluebells and the only other people I encountered were locals with their dogs. A lovely spot to walk with your thoughts.
13) eat fish & chips by the sea
Fish & chips always taste better when consumed outside within view of the sea and ferocious squawking seagulls are as much part of this experience as the box of fried food itself.
There are two fish & chip takeaways in Ullapool and I went to the one which was recommended to me by both locals and visitors, Deli-ca-sea: a wise decision!
I saved this for my final night and it was an idyllic last supper in the sunshine, seagulls inclusive.
I hope you enjoyed reading about my top things to do in Ullapool.
I’m Kay, by the way; you can read more about me here.
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