Isle of Coll: top reasons to visit

Coll is something special, an island that doesn’t do things by halves. The beauty is boundless and the sense of community is strong; the peacefulness is palpable, and on a clear, dark night, the sky comes alive with stars.

You don’t need a car or a tick-list itinerary for this island; Coll is a place to just be.

This is my guide to the Isle of Coll; how to get there, where to stay, and why it’s so special.

My visits to Coll have been on paid campaigns to promote Scotland’s West Coast Waters and to highlight the benefits of exploring the islands in winter with CalMac Ferries.

Coll had me from the very moment I set foot upon its shores. It was like stepping through a force-field into an alternate existence, where everything is more calm and beautiful. I breezed around in my own wee bubble, appreciating everything – and doing nothing.

Without the distraction of traffic, noise, and constant social media notifications, my senses were heightened. The sun shone in my eyes and warmed my skin, while dewy drips glistened on the grass and wooden gates. The local sheep were the only sign of life on my morning walks, and the gentle movement of the tide was all that broke the silence.

A fluorescent rainbow plunged into the rocky, autumn-coated landscape, and I sat staring at it for nearly an hour. It’s in these moments I love being unsociable; exempt from compromise and relishing the peace.

My first visit to Coll, autumn 2019

WHERE IS THE ISLE OF COLL?

Coll belongs to the Inner Hebrides off the west coast of Scotland. Coll’s closest neighbour is the Isle of Tiree, while the Isle of Mull is just four miles across the water.

The Small Isles and the Treshnish Isles are also visible from Coll, depending where you are on the island.

GETTING TO THE ISLE OF COLL

Coll feels like a million miles away from the busy bustle of the mainland, but it’s just a single ferry hop of under 3 hours. You can take a car if you have one, but you can easily get to the island and experience what it has to offer without one.

> ScotRail train or Citylink bus from Glasgow to Oban (approx. 3 hours) – book in advance for the best fares; 12 weeks ahead for the train and up to 48 hours before for the bus.

> CalMac Ferry from Oban to Coll (2.5 – 3 hours) – the ferry port is just under 1 mile from the centre of the village. You can walk, request a pick-up from your host, or sometimes locals will offer you a lift.

There are no local buses on the island, so if you’re planning to visit without a car, these are my top tips:

> Base yourself in Arinagour – everything you need is in the village; places to eat, the local shop, the hotel and the ferry port.

> Hire a bike – if you’re staying at Coll Hotel, there are bikes available for guests. You can also hire a bike from Coll Post Office or an eBike from An Cridhe Community Centre.

> Book a tour – car-free guests staying at Coll Hotel can request a wee guided spin of the island; the team will do their best to accommodate.

ISLE OF COLL: QUICK FACTS & QUIRKS

> Coll is bigger than I had expected – I’d had visions of Coll being a tiny island, but it is around 13 miles long by 3 miles at its widest point.

> A long history – much like its island neighbours, Coll has been a hive of human activity throughout history. The island has seen Mesolithic hunter-gathers, Neolithic farmers, the Gaels, Viking settlers, and clan battles. During the Highland Clearances, the population took a sharp decline and today there are around 160 year-round permanent residents.

> Dark Sky Park – Coll was successful in securing its ‘Dark Skies’ victory stamp, and the island is now known as one of the best places to stargaze in the UK. There is no light pollution on Coll, thanks to the absence of street lights, so it really is the perfect place to immerse yourself in the sky above. The sky was cloudy on the nights that I visited, but usually the stars are out in force. It’s also possible to see the Northern Lights from the island.

> RSPB Nature Reserve – Coll’s nature reserve is based at Totronald. The area is teeming with birdlife, and you might be in with a chance of spotting the elusive corncrake. There are lots of homely habitats for wildlife on the island, and the wildflowers in spring are as popular with the birds as they are with photographers!

> Basking Sharks – the waters around Coll are a prime location for spotting wildlife, such as whales, porpoises and dolphins. It is also believed to be a breeding ground for basking sharks. Regular research is undertaken from the island, and you can get involved too. Barking Shark Scotland offer Basking Shark & Wildlife Tours from Coll.

> Mairi Hedderwick – Coll was the inspiration for Mairi Hedderwick’s fictional Isle of Struay, in her widely-loved children’s books about a wee girl called Katie Morag. Mairi is an illustrator as well as an author, and I’m a big fan of her beautiful illustrated diaries, which depict many familiar scenes from my island adventures. I buy one for myself every year! Mairi no longer lives on Coll, but she still has family on the island.

> Project Trust – this gap year organisation has been based on the Isle of Coll since 1974, and every year they pair around 300 school leavers from across the UK with volunteering opportunities in Asia, Africa and Latin America. The charity is the biggest employer on the island. You can view their website here.

ISLE OF COLL: REASONS TO LOVE IT

1) COLL IS A LESSER-KNOWN ISLAND

While this might seem ridiculous to those who already know and love the island, I’m regularly surprised by the number of people who haven’t even heard of Coll; both from Scotland and overseas.

Skye is the island everyone knows about, while many hop across to the Isle of Mull in under 1 hour from Oban.

Coll is that wee bit further to reach and can only be visited as a day trip on Wednesdays, when the ferry schedule allows it. The island also doesn’t have the infrastructure to support mass tourism, and to me, that’s a great thing.

If you want to slow down and appreciate simple island pleasures, Coll is the one for you.

2) THE TRANQUIL CHARM OF ARINAGOUR

You know when you just get a nice feeling about a place? Arinagour does that for me.

This pretty village is the ferry arrival point and main settlement on Coll, and it has everything you need: coastal scenery, amenities and local businesses. The village alone is the perfect getaway and glimpse into island life, although I do recommend venturing out to see more of what Coll has to offer.

Places to check out in Arinagour:

> Coll Stores – this new village shop is well stocked with fresh and packaged goods, including the full range of small batch island spirits from Isle of Coll Distillery directly next door.

> Island Cafe – the only village eatery, aside from Coll Hotel, this cute cafe is open breakfast, lunch & dinner (on certain days), serving seafood, seasonal produce and local meat, as well as hot drinks and home-baking.

> Coll Post Office – support the local community, and contribute to the demand for Post Offices in rural areas – as they are currently under threat. Expect souvenirs, postcards, gifts, Mairi Hedderwick illustrated diaries, and a warm welcome from Fiona.

> Ross of Coll – Coll has its very own clothing brand, thanks to resident Graphic Designer, Ross Evans. Ross creates bold designs with humorous slogans which reflect island life; basking sharks, the famous hairy coo with the twisted horn, and the distinctively noisy corncrakes. Ross also designed the branding for most of the village businesses which creates a lovely consistency.

Ross of Coll products are available online, in the community centre, and directly from Ross and Chloe’s family home just up the hill from the village.

3) island hospitality at coll hotel

Every island needs a Coll Hotel. It is an island oasis in every sense; beautiful, hospitable and family-run, it is a hub for locals and a dream for visitors.

Julie and her husband Kevin are the third generation of the Oliphant family to live and breathe Coll Hotel since the 1960s and the hotel is so highly regarded, they have won multiple awards for their food and hospitality. All accolades considered, the family are still anything but complacent.

The dining areas are flooded with natural light and bedrooms are homely-luxury; the ground floor, sea view rooms have direct access to the hotel garden overlooking the bay.

The food is an absolute highlight and I eagerly anticipated meal times each day; cooked breakfasts and hot drinks, homemade soup and freshly filled focaccia sandwiches, hearty evening meals and delicious desserts.

Finally, the hotel is home to the island’s only pub and it’s a popular gathering place for locals and visitors alike.

Check out the Coll Hotel website to view the rooms, menus, offers and availability.

4) the inspiring An Cridhe COMMUNITY CENTRE

An Cridhe translates as “the heart”, and this community centre has indeed become the heart of Coll since opening in July 2012. This beautiful, multi-purpose space has a community mini-gym, playroom, computer room, library, local crafts/products for sale and a kitchen to cater for events.

The main hall is used for sports, cinema nights, gigs, ceilidhs, and weddings; it even hosted the Detour Discotheque remote disco event in 2023. a similar venue in the city would come with a hefty price tag! Thanks to these events, the centre is paying for itself, which is a huge achievement – and a great case study for other islands.

The centre is open seven days a week from 9am – 9pm, and everyone is welcome. Visitors can use the WiFi, make a cuppa, and relax by one of the many floor-to-ceiling windows.

Every Saturday there is a local craft market in the centre, where you’ll find Ross of Coll clothing, homemade jams, and other local goodies. Be sure to stop and admire the woodwork on the Reception desk, designed by Mairi Hedderwick. It’s stunning!

Visit the An Cridhe website for more information.

5) BUDGET FRIENDLY COLL BUNKHOUSE

Next door to the community centre is the 5* Coll Bunkhouse, which is a not-for-profit, community-run business. The bunkhouse is proof that you don’t need to compromise on quality and comfort if you’re travelling on a budget.

The attractive building is modern and sparklingly clean, with bright and spacious bunk rooms, a well-equipped kitchen, and a comfortable lounge area. There’s even a washing/drying room which is used by both guests and the community

Coll Bunkhouse sleeps up to 15 people, in two six-bedded dorms and one four-bedded dorm for private use. There are several, separate bathrooms and showers, and each dorm has its own sink and mirror. You’ll also find plug sockets by the beds, reading lights, free WiFi, and storage lockers – it’s these simple things that really make a difference.

The bunkhouse hosts various groups and events throughout the year, including Coll and the Cosmos weekend stargazing breaks.

Check out the Coll Bunkhouse website for availability, facilities and events.

6) THE ISLAND’S DREAMY BEACHES

There are no less than 30 beaches to choose from, and they really like to show off the paradisiacal good looks for which the Hebrides are known; white sand, steep dunes, golden machair and mesmerisingly clear water.

It’s unlikely you’ll simply stumble across the best beaches – since most aren’t visible from the road – so it’s always wise to have some local recommendations on where to go. The fact they’re a wee bit hidden only adds to the appeal.

I’ve all but scratched the surface when it comes to bagging the beaches of Coll, but I absolutely loved:

> Crossapol Bay – this horseshoe bay sits at the south of the island. On the day that I visited, the wet sand was so smooth and shiny, it acted as a mirror for the sky.

> Torastan – this idyllic beach is a real heartbreaker. Machair-covered dunes give way to flawless white sand and scattered boulders. Thanks to its position on the north-west side, silhouettes of The Small Isles can be seen beyond the turquoise sea.

> Cliad Bay – watch seals shuffling on the rocks at this bonnie beach on the west side of the island. We cycled from Arinagour, left the bikes close to the recycling centre (you can’t miss it), and walked across the dunes to the beach.

> Struan Beach – even on a grey, windy, diagonally rainy day, it was easy to see why this beach and its long arch of flawless sand is a popular spot for island weddings.

Want to know the best part? You’ll probably have them all to yourself.

7) THE magic of autumn & winter

Coll may seem a surprising choice for a cosy getaway at this time of year but, to me, it’s perfect.

The force of fresh air on bracing beach walks is a detox for the mind, body and soul; best followed by cosy meals, hot drinks and drams of whisky at Coll Hotel.

You’re more likely to encounter sheep than other visitors and there’s a much more local feel to the island; the community pull together as the dark nights draw in, gathering for weekly pool tournaments and social connection in the hotel bar.

The days are shorter and colder, but they certainly are not devoid of colour and character. On my most recent wintry escape to the island, I woke up to sky and sea ablaze with vibrant stripes of pink, purple and orange; the most beautiful sunrise I’ve ever seen.

More darkness also means better star-gazing opportunities; unless the clouds have other ideas.

Take advantage of the amazing Winter Breaks at Coll Hotel from October – March; £190 per couple per night, including breakfast and a fantastic 3-course dinner.

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