Isle of Jura: the wild side of the hebrides

The Isle of Jura is most commonly characterised by three things: its famous single malt whisky, the population of red deer, and its trio of mountains, known as the Paps of Jura.

Jura is not a place with an essential tick-list of ‘things to do’; it is place of nature, tranquility and community.

If you prefer to wander the less-trodden path and find joy in simple things – slowing down, being outdoors and connecting with local people – this is the island for you.

I have visited Jura on paid campaigns with Wild About Argyll and CalMac Ferries, but also several times on my own trips; solo and with an 8 week old baby!

For more information and inspiration from the island, visit the Isle of Jura website here.

Palm trees, sparkly sea, and the warmth of the sun on my skin. I knew I’d find it hard to leave, and this was definitely not helping. It was as if the seasons had shifted, and I was being teased by this glorious outburst. Just an hour earlier, the heavens opened and a luminous rainbow had appeared. Was this even the same island I had spent the last two days on?

When I arrived on Jura, the mist was low and lingering. There were droplets of dew on the grass, and the pebbles on the beach were grey with polka dots from the sporadic sprinkling of rain. Then, beams of sunlight forced their way through the thick clouds, to illuminate the landscape and highlight the true blue of the water. It was as if these temperamental conditions were deliberate, allowing me to literally see the island in so many different lights. No matter what weather it wears, Jura is an absolute beauty.

I love every Scottish Island that I’ve visited, but some have been slow-burners, while others were more like a scenic slap in the face. Jura falls to the extreme end of the latter.

My first trip to Jura, 2019

isle of jura: a few wee facts

• Jura is the 8th largest Scottish island at 30 miles long and 7 miles wide
• The population of approx. 5000 deer massively outnumber the 220-ish human residents
• For centuries, most of the island was owned by the Campbells, however the last member of the family left in 1938 and the island’s estates are now owned by various landlords.
• There is only one road, which runs from the ferry port at Feolin to the main town of Craighouse, then along the east of the island. Everything else is wilderness.
• The remote farmhouse at Barnhill is where George Orwell wrote 1984.

WHERE IS THE ISLE OF JURA?

Jura sits off the west coast of Scotland between the mainland of Argyll and Islay, with Colonsay even further west, and the famous Corryvreckan whirlpool to the north.

Jura belongs to the main island group of the Inner Hebrides but is grouped together with its neighbouring islands – Islay, Colonsay and Gigha – as the Southern Hebrides.

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THE ISLE OF jura: how to get there

George Orwell once described Jura as “an extremely ungetatable place”, and while it does require a bit of effort to get there, the island in wait is absolutely worth it. The lack of super-easy access is a positive thing; it means the island hasn’t fallen victim to mass tourism and the challenges that come with it.

There are two ferry routes to the island; your choice of route will depend on where you’re coming from, whether you’re travelling with a vehicle or not, and the time of year you’re visiting.

1) CAR FERRY: Port Askaig (Islay) > Feolin (Jura)

• This is the main ferry route which carries both foot passengers and vehicles
• Journey time = 10 minutes
• The service is operated by Argyll & Bute council
• If you’re travelling on this ferry, you also need to get to Islay first*
• When you arrive at Feolin, the main village of Craighouse is a 15-minute drive
• There is also a community bus service, if you’re travelling without a car
• For this service, you just turn up before the departure time and pay when you’re on-board

*How to get to Islay

• Drive to Kennacraig Ferry Terminal or catch the Citylink bus from Glasgow (journey time 3 hours, 20 minutes)
• Book the CalMac ferry from Kennacraig to Port Askaig; you must book this ferry in advance

2) PASSENGER FERRY: Tayvallich > Craighouse (Jura)

• The Jura Passenger Ferry is for foot passengers only
• Journey time = approx. 1 hour
• The service operates from April to October; there are no sailings on Tues, Thurs & Sat
• The ferry departs from the pretty village of Tayvallich on the Knapdale Peninsula; you can get there without a car on the West Coast Motors 425/426 bus from Lochgilphead.
• The ferry lands right in the main village of Craighouse – super convenient!
• This is perfect if you fancy popping over to Jura for the day or if you don’t need a vehicle when you’re there
• You must book this ferry in advance

ISLE OF JURA: MY TOP REASONS TO VISIT

1) TO DISCOVER THE PAPS OF JURA

The Paps of Jura are three iconic mountains, which have become something of an island emblem; they are featured in most images, arts and crafts of Jura. None of the mountains are Munros (over 3000ft), however the tallest of the three – Beinn an Oir – is a Corbett, sitting at 2576ft; the others are 2477ft (Beinn Shiantaidh) and 2407ft (Beinn a’ Chaolais).

The Paps of Jura have an otherworldly presence, and beckon you to the isle from a great distance.

Confident hikers/navigators who wish to attempt to summit the Paps independently can follow the route on the Walk Highlands website. If you’re even more hardcore, check out the annual Isle of Jura Fell Race which welcomes 250 runners from far and wide.

Due to the challenging terrain, I recommend booking a guided hike with Grant at Jura Guided, who will share his local knowledge, stories and superstitions along the way.

Finally, if you’re tired at the very thought of hiking or running up mountains, to simply gaze upon the island’s mighty peaks is memorable enough.

2) TO EXPLORE CRAIGHOUSE

Craighouse, Jura’s main settlement, is nestled around the picturesque Small Isles Bay on the island’s east side.

The village is where you’ll find the only shop, hotel and pub on the island. It’s also home to Jura Distillery, home of the famous single malt, and a wee cluster of local businesses by the sea:

• The Antlers Bakehouse & Bar (more on that below)
• Deer Island Rum
• Whisky Island Gallery & Studio
• Camella Crafts

Walk to the end of the pier for the best view of the village and the ‘Paps’ in the distance.

The Jura Hotel

The Jura Hotel is a friendly, family-run accommodation, which has been welcoming guests since the 1960s. The hotel is traditional and homely, yet modern in all the right places. Everything you need is there, from food and drink to maps and local information. The hotel is also home to the island’s only pub, and it’s a well-stocked and welcoming establishment.

The website boasts the tagline ‘get away from it all’, and I feel like I did exactly that. There was no TV in the room so I admired the sea views instead, and found myself retiring to the room after dinner to finish my whisky samples from the Bowmore Distillery, and to soak in the massive bath; not at the same time, I might add! Dabbling in social media was a necessity on this trip, and the WiFi served me well, from the comfort of an armchair in the sitting room.

I stayed just before the season started, so the hotel was the only place to eat on the island, and thankfully the food was fantastic. During the summer months, the menu features fresh seafood and local venison, however it was only pub fayre which was available on my visit; excellent quality and delicious though. I particularly enjoyed the steak with Jura Whisky sauce and the homemade Oreo ice-cream; I had it two nights in a row!

Breakfast is cooked to order, and served with a sea view. I recommend the Jura Hotel Breakfast Bap with bacon, sausage, a fried egg and Stornoway black pudding. For a reason that I still can’t comprehend, I decided not to be a complete glutton and had mine without the sausage. Next time I won’t be so silly.

• I stayed in a super-spacious and comfortable premium room which looked out to the bay; it was idyllic. Prices start at £110 for standard double and £130 for the premium double.
• To check availability and book visit the Jura Hotel website.

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Jura Whisky

It’s said that Jura Whisky is more famous than the island itself, and that may very well be the case. Whisky production officially began on Jura in 1810, when the Campbells built the distillery. By the end of the 19th century though, the distillery had fallen into disrepair and operations were ceased. It wasn’t until 1963 that the distillery was re-opened and given a new lease of life. The distillery has created jobs for the locals, attracted tourism to the island, and now produces 2.3 million litres of whisky per year.

Take a tour of the distillery, to see the signature tall stills, the wall mural which reflects the tasting notes of the previous range, and to sample a dram straight from the source. Oh, and Adam who works there is like Kyle Falconer from The View with a Glaswegian accent.

• The standard tour takes 45 minutes and costs £6 per person
• For more information, visit the Jura Whisky website.

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Jura Island Tours

You don’t need a car to visit Jura. As mentioned previously, there is only one road, most of the island can only be explored on foot, and there’s a wee bus in operation. If that’s not enough to convince you to ditch your vehicle, there is also a local tour company to take you around the island. Jura Island Tours is run by a lovely chap called Alex, who is originally from Glasgow, but moved to the island over 30 years ago, and is a local in every sense.

Alex built his dream house on the island, and is an immensely proud and active member of the community; including the Jura Development Trust. He has an endless knowledge of the island and its history. He told me stories about the wee starling who nested every year in a post box, and his mother-in-law who used to travel 8 miles to school on a horse and cart along a rough track. Alex gave me an even greater insight into island life at the photography exhibition in the Jura Parish Church, which is filled with amazing old photographs of the island and its residents in years gone by.

We travelled up the east of the island, taking in the wild scenery and stunning coastline, and stopping regularly for photos along the way. Unsurprisingly, there were plenty of red deer along the way, and we even spotted two young sea eagles. The tour is a brilliant way to learn about island life, and discover the local gems.

• Alex can pick you up in Craighouse or at the ferry port if you are only visiting for the day.
• To check prices and availability, visit the Jura Island Tours website.

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The Jura Development Trust

The Jura Development Trust was set up by locals in 1997 to improve and develop the island. The trust has secured over £2 million worth of funding, which has allowed them to execute numerous projects, including the purchase and restoration of the village store, installing new cladding for the village hall, and creating 16 moorings for yachts. These initiatives have created jobs, boosted the local economy, and generally made the island a better place for locals and visitors alike.

The sense of community is one my favourite things about the Scottish Islands, and the Jura Development Trust is an amazing example of what can be achieved. It’s no surprise that they have won various awards for their efforts.

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Lussa Gin

On my island tour with Alex, we popped into Lussa Gin HQ, which is essentially a wee stable in a mini settlement called Ardlussa. I was greeted by Alicia, who comes from about as far away from the island as you get; the land down under, Australia. Alicia now calls Jura home, and is one of three local ladies who dreamt up a plan in 2015, and sealed their first bottle in 2016.

Alicia, Claire and Georgina are all passionate about their island, and using what nature provides to create a high-quality product. They purchased their first still on Amazon, and then became tirelessly devoted to learning about their new craft, and perfecting the recipe for Lussa Gin. All ingredients are grown and foraged on the island, including the roses which come from Georgina and Alicia’s very own gardens. The brambles for the special edition bramble liqueur (FYI – it’s delicious) were handpicked with the help of the local community, who also sampled and voted on their favourite gin recipe before it was launched.

Lussa Gin is already being exported to Sweden and Germany, and have been shortlisted for awards. I don’t even like gin, but I tried it neat and loved it. The flavour is zesty, and it was so refreshing. I’ve been converted.

• If you’d like to visit the distillery, you must book in advance on the Lussa Gin website

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How to Get to the Isle of Jura

There are a few ways you can travel to Jura, either directly from the mainland or via Islay. You can fly to Islay with Loganair (approx. 30 minutes) and take the local bus from the airport to Port Askaig (approx. 40 minutes) for the 10-minute ferry over to Jura.

If you’d prefer not to fly, you can take the CalMac ferry from Kennacraig to Port Askaig or from Oban to Port Askaig, then onwards to Feolin. Lastly, you can arrive straight into the village of Craighouse on the Jura Passenger Ferry from Tayvallich (only available March – Sept).

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This post is sponsored by Wild About Argyll  and People Make Glasgow as part of the ‘The Heart & Soul of Scotland’ campaign. As always, all content, opinions & chaotic behaviour are my own.

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Happy travels!

Kay