OUTLANDER IN INVERNESS:
The Real Jacobite History & Ten Top Sites to Visit
The Inverness area has significant links to the Outlander series. Whilst most of the TV show was filmed elsewhere, Inverness is steeped in the Jacobite history which inspired Diana Gabaldon’s story. Join me for a wee history lesson, and a round-up of locations to add to your Outlander-themed checklist.
Table of Contents
The Outlander Effect.
If you’re reading this, it’s likely you’re already familiar with the ‘Outlander effect’. Diana Gabaldon created a fictional tale of time travel and romance, which is rooted in the very real history and culture of my bonnie homeland. Her books, and the subsequent TV series, sparked a widespread interest in Scotland, and a desire to follow in the footsteps of star-crossed lovebirds Jamie and Claire.
While I’m yet to read the books, I am a big fan of the Outlander TV series. This obviously has absolutely nothing to do with Jamie Fraser’s rugged good looks, cheeky smile, and heroic tendencies. It’s because I love the references to Jacobite history, and seeing familiar Scottish sights (and sites), and recognizing the scenery of the filming locations.
OKAY. So, maybe Jamie does have something to do with it. Just a wee bit. I mean, they just don’t make men like him in the real world, do they? Or at least not in this century. Anyway, Outlander has a worldwide fan base and Scotland is seeing increased visitor numbers as a result. With season four filming well underway, it doesn’t look like the Outlander effect will stop anytime soon!
To truly appreciate the Outlander story, I think it’s important to understand the Scottish history which underpins it. Here is my attempt to summarise this complicated and controversial time in Scotland, followed by ten recommended sights to visit with connections to the Outlander story.
Jacobite History in a Nutshell.
The Stuarts
The Stuart Monarchy ruled Scotland from 1371 for over three-hundred years, and their reign had no shortage of drama. Mary Queen of Scots became the first and only Stuart queen just days after she was born in 1542, following the death of her father James V of Scotland. Mary led a colourful and controversial life, which came to an end when she was beheaded for (alleged) treason in 1586.
After the death of Queen Elizabeth I of England in 1603, James VI of Scotland also became James I of England; Elizabeth having never married nor had children, therefore leaving no direct heir to the throne. This event is known as the Union of the Crowns, where the two independent countries of Scotland and England were then ruled by one monarch.
Fast forward to the reign of King James VII of Scotland and II of England. Despite the Protestant Reformation having swept across Western Europe in the 15thcentury, James was a Roman Catholic. This made him very unpopular with Protestant nobles, who feared that the Stuarts would reestablish the Catholic faith in Britain. As such, James was overthrown by his protestant daughter’s husband, William of Orange.
James, who was the last King of Scotland, went to live in exile in France. There were many supporters of the new Dutch King William – mainly in England and the Scottish Lowlands – however, James had a following of his own.
The Jacobites
The Jacobites were loyal supporters of the deposed King James (the name derives from ‘Jacobus’, Latin for James), and initially the majority were Highland Clans. They embarked on a series of rebellions between 1689 and 1746 to claim back the throne for the Stuart Monarchy.
In 1707, The Act of Union brought together the Kingdoms of Scotland and England to form one country, Great Britain. There were many who opposed the union, and the Jacobite Cause saw a surge in supporters as a result. The Jacobites also gained backing from France, Spain and Ireland, whose soldiers fought alongside them in battles against the British army.
There is some debate around whether this period in history can be defined as Scotland vs. England. Either way, it’s really not that simple. There were clans who sided with the British Government – most notably Clan Campbell – and there were also English Jacobites.
Religion, power and politics all had their part to play during this bloody and brutal conflict. Whatever their motivation, the Jacobites celebrated some small victories over the decades, but their cause was ultimately doomed.
Bonnie Prince Charlie
Charles Stuart was the grandson of the deposed King James. He grew up in Italy, and in 1745 he came to Scotland for the first time in a bid to win back the throne for the Stuart bloodline; giving the crown to his father James ‘The Old Pretender’. When Charlie landed in Scotland in August 1745, he met an army of Highland clans and together they began the march south. This signaled the start of the final Jacobite Uprising, known as ‘the 45’.
Charlie and his Jacobite army successfully captured Edinburgh, and went on to defeat the Hanoverians in the Battle of Prestonpans, in September 1745. Their good fortune would be short-lived, however.
The army marched towards London – to take the throne from George II of Hanover – and they got as far Derby; all but 130 miles from their final destination. The French support had not arrived, and they were told their army was surrounded and would not make it to London. Charlie’s advisors – including Lord George Murray – pushed him to abort the march, and return to Scotland. He agreed, with great reluctance, and the exhausted and demoralized Jacobites began the long walk home. Here comes the worst part…
King George was actually in state of panic, and ready to return to Hanover. Oh, and there were no surrounding armies. Instead, the Jacobites had been misinformed by a government spy and if they had just continued on their way, our history would be very different.
Back in Scotland, the Jacobites won the Battle of Falkirk Muir in January 1746; this was their last notable victory. In the months which followed, the Hanoverian army advanced towards the Highlands, led by the Duke of Cumberland. He was the son of George II, who would later be known as ‘the Butcher’ for his unforgiving campaign of atrocities during and after Culloden.
The Battle of Culloden
The Battle of Culloden was the last battle fought on British soil. On the 16thApril 1746 over one thousand clansmen lost their lives at the hands of the Hanoverian army. Culloden was the final attempt to restore the Stuart Monarchy to the British throne, after decades of rebellion and politic unrest.
The night before the battle, the Jacobites attempted a surprise ambush on the Hanoverians, who were camped in Nairn. Sadly, they didn’t reach the camp before daylight, and were forced to retreat to Culloden Moor in preparation for the battle.
The Jacobites were vastly outnumbered by the Hanoverians, who were one of the most superior armies in Europe. On the flat expanse of Culloden Moor, there was no opportunity to execute a ‘Highland Charge’ on the boggy terrain. The clans with their claymores were no match for the cannons and muskets, as they attempted to run towards the Hanoverian front line. The battle was over in just 45 minutes.
The day after Culloden, Lord George Murray and 3,000 remaining Jacobites gathered at Ruthven Barracks and waited for Charlie to instruct them on the next move. I find this particularly sad as they obviously had not yet realised that this was the end. Charlie didn’t appear, but sent a message which said:
‘Let every man seek his safety in the best way he can’
Charlie went into hiding for four months, before escaping on a French ship from Portree on Skye. He never returned to Scotland, and died of a stroke in Rome in 1788.
The Battle of Culloden was tragically mishandled by Charlie, and the impact of this final Jacobite defeat changed Scotland forever. The Highland clan system was systematically cleansed by the British government; tartan, Gaelic, weapons and bagpipes were banned, with the punishment of death. Less than a decade later, more changes to the Highland way of life resulted in what would become known as the Highland Clearances.
The Highland Clearances
Spanning a period of around 100 years, the Highland Clearances saw the people of the Highlands ruthlessly evicted from their land. Most of the Highland clans were farmers, and the landowners realised that they could make more money from sheep farming than in rent from the farmers. As a result, the farmers and their families were forced from their homes; their blackhouses were often set alight!
Some started new lives in the city – the population of Glasgow sky-rocketed in the space of 50 years – and others boarded ships to the ‘new world’; American, Canada, Australia etc. Because of this, many place names in these countries have Scottish origins, and there are millions of people worldwide with Scottish ancestry.
Outlander Locations near Inverness.
Inverness is one of the key locations in Outlander, however it wasn’t used as a filming location. Instead, the cute town of Falkland in Fife starred as 1950s Inverness in the series. The city is still in the heart of Outlander territory however, with countless connections to the history which inspired Diana Gabaldon’s story. Here are my top ten.
1. Culloden Battlefield – Culloden Moor, IV2 5EU
The Battle of Culloden was a pivotal point in Scotland’s history, and one which also impacted the history of the world; from the Highland Clearances to the birth of the British Empire. The Culloden Visitor Centre brilliantly captures this complex period in our history and the aftermath.
Out on the battlefield, there are headstones with specific clan names, and there is also a large memorial cairn which pays tribute to all the fallen clans. Flags mark the Jacobite and Hanoverian front lines, and there are information plaques dotted around the battlefield. There are also audio guides which can be used on your walk around the moor. Culloden is a harrowing but necessary experience when visiting Inverness.
- Culloden is a National Trust for Scotland site
- Entry to Culloden Visitor Centre costs £11 per adult, and the opening hours are 09.00 – 19.00
- Entry onto the battlefield is free
- For more information visit the website
2. Clara Cairns – Near Inverness
Craigh na Dun standing stones featured in the Outlander TV series are fictional, however many similar stone circles do exist in Scotland, and Clava Cairns is one of them. Visitors can attempt their own journey back in time through one of the prominent standing stones.
Located just south of Culloden, the site dates back over four-thousand years, and the circular stone chambers – which were used to bury the dead – are remarkably well-preserved. Experts know very little about the people who built them, but we do that the stones were positioned in alignment with the sun and stars. The fact that we don’t have all the answers is what makes this site so special.
- For directions please visit the Historic Scotland website
3. Beauly Priory – Beauly, IV4 7DY
The quaint town of Beauly takes its name from the French ‘beau lieu’ meaning beautiful place; as described by Mary Queen of Scots when she stayed in the village. The pretty ruins of Beauly Priory were once a 13thcentury settlement for Valliscaulian Monks.
The graveyard there is scattered with intriguing and some indecipherable tombstones, as well as an ancient elm tree. Today Beauly Priory is better known for its showcase in Outlander. Not only are there members of Clan Fraser buried at the site, it was also featured in season two, when Claire meets Maisri the Seer.
- There is no entry charge for Beauly Priory
4. Wardlaw Mausoleum – Wardlaw Road, Kirkhill IV5 7NB
A picturesque burial site in the small village of Kirkhill became the subject of widespread media attention, when experts attempted to solve the mystery of the infamous Lord Lovat, Simon Fraser; he is mentioned in the Outlander series as Jamie’s grandfather ‘The Old Fox’.
This Highland Clan Chief and Jacobite sympathiser was the last man to be beheaded in Britain, when he was executed in London in 1747 for treason after Culloden. It is claimed that his body was buried at the Tower of London, but that his clan snuck it home to Scotland where it was buried in the family mausoleum. It was therefore believed that a headless body found at the site was that of Lord Lovat.
Toward the end of 2017, the headless remains were exhumed to ascertain whether it did in fact belong to Lord Lovat, and forensic experts shockingly confirmed that it was actually a young woman, identity unknown. It would appear we now have a double mystery on our hands!
- To find out more, visit the Wardlaw Mausoleum website
5. Fort George – near Ardersier, Inverness IV2 7TD
Fort George is a vast and impressive military fort, strategically positioned on a stretch of headland near the fishing village of Ardersier. In the years after Culloden, the British government was fearful that the Jacobites would rebel again, so decided to construct an impenetrable fort, just in case. Of course, the fort was never needed as a Jacobite defense, but was still used as a military base, for the next 250 years; World Wars I & II included. Today, Fort George is a functioning army base, and an excellent visitor attraction.
- Read more about Fort George on the Historic Scotland website
- Entry to Fort George is £9.00 per adult and £5.40 for children aged 5–15
City Sights with Outlander connections.
6. Leakey’s Bookshop – Church Street, Inverness IV1 1EY
A visit to Leakey’s Bookshop is one of my top things to do in Inverness. Venturing inside is like stepping back in time, no standing stones required. It’s a truly magical and charming wee place, filled with colourful books and the distinct smell of old book pages. Today it is Scotland’s largest second-hand bookshop, however it was once a Gaelic church and it was used as a war hospital for the Hanoverians wounded in the Battle of Culloden.
7. Abertaff House – Church Street, Inverness IV1 1EY
Abertaff House is the oldest surviving building in Inverness, dating back to 1593. It was built as a townhouse for Clan Fraser of Lovat, and was once occupied by Colonel Archibald Fraser who was the son of the infamous ‘Old Fox’, Lord Lovat. The building was restored by the National Trust for Scotland in 1966, and it is hoped that parts of the building will soon to be open to visitors for the first time. In the meantime, you can attempt a wee photo from the outside; with a tree in the way!
8. Old High Church – Church Street, Inverness IV1 1EY
This picturesque church which overlooks the River Ness, is the oldest in Inverness. It is something of a paradox in that it has been a place of worship and of killing. After the Battle of Culloden, the church was used as a prison for Jacobite rebels, and the church yard outside was used to execute them. There are two stones which serve as a reminder of this; one which the Jacobite soldier would sit on, and the other a few yards away where the executioner would rest his gun. There is an information plaque in the church yard which explains this.
9. Flora MacDonald Statue – View Pl, Inverness IV2 3EG
Flora MacDonald, from South Uist, is the best-known and most loyal female Jacobite supporter, and is remembered as a romantic heroine of the 1745 rebellion. After the Battle of Culloden, Bonnie Prince Charlie became a fugitive in the Outer Hebrides for four months; he had a price tag of £30,000 on his head.
Flora MacDonald famously disguised him as her female maid ‘Betty Burke’, and travelled with him from Benbecula ‘over the sea to Skye’ where he fled on a French ship in September 1746. Flora was imprisoned for her involvement in the Prince’s escape, but was inexplicably released the following year. Her bonnie bronze statue sits outside Inverness Castle.
10. Inverness Museum – Castle Wynd, Inverness IV2 3EB
Inverness Museum is a fantastic free attraction in the centre of the city, which gives a brilliant insight into the history, geology and culture of the Highlands. It has a whole floor dedicated to Jacobite history with numerous artefacts which have been donated to the museum by various Jacobite enthusiasts and collectors. These historic gems include a ring which contains locks of hair from both the bonnie prince and Flora MacDonald.
Are you planning to visit the Inverness area?
Check out my top recommendations for things to do and places to stay in Inverness. Venture further east to explore the Speyside Whisky Trail and ride the vintage Keith and Dufftown Railway. If you would like some help planning your trip, check out my Itinerary Planning services.
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