Tobermory, Isle of Mull

Tobermory is a delightful, colourful, and easily walkable wee port town on the Isle of Mull. I travelled to Tobermory on public transport, and stayed at the Tobermory Youth Hostel, where I explored the main sights and hidden gems in and around the town.

This post is part of a paid campaign with Hostelling Scotland, to give an honest review of Tobemory Youth Hostel, and discover the best things to do in Tobermory.

Everyone needs a splash of colour in their life. Tobermory’s picturesque waterfront flaunts its brightly-coloured buildings against a backdrop of rolling hills and leafy woodland. This bonnie sight has earned the humble harbour its reputation as one of the prettiest in all of Scotland. Visitors come on day trips, cruise ships, and staycations for their wee slice of Tobermory life. After spending a long weekend in the town, I realised that my previous day visits had barely scratched the surface.

Given its relatively small size, there is a surprising number of things to do – and a car really isn’t necessary. There was cheese, whisky, seafood, coastal walks, and an adventure on a community-owned island. Tobermory isn’t just the ‘capital’ of Mull, it’s one of the island’s top attractions.

Three wee facts about Tobermory

THINGS TO DO IN TOBERMORY

Photograph Tobermory Harbour

The vibrant facades in Tobermory are so photogenic, you’ll be frantically reaching for your camera to capture it in all its rainbow-coloured glory. I was told by a local lady that the town was painted black and white until the 1960s/70s (can you imagine?), until yellow paint was accidentally sent to one of the property owners instead of the usual white. Rather than return the paint, they simply chose to start a new trend! Another source tells me that it was the owner of The Mishnish Hotel who decided to lead the way; first painting the building pink, and then yellow – which is the colour you can see today. I’ll let you choose your favourite story!

TOP TIP: For the best photo of Tobermory Harbour, stand next to the benches overlooking the waterfront in Ledaig car park.

Mull Museum

Mull Museum tells the story of the island, through numerous snippets, photographs, maps, and items from the past. For a compact space, there are a lot of interesting things to see and read. The museum has a detailed archive and a huge library of books relating the island. These are such valuable resources, and without them there would be many unanswered questions about the island’s history, heritage, and people. Local volunteers run the museum, and look after all the precious exhibits and materials. What a great job they do!

TOP TIP: Entry to the museum is free, but a wee donation is always welcome.

• For more information, visit the Mull Museum website 

Mull Aquarium

Tobermory is home to Europe’s first catch-and-release aquarium. Everything you see in Mull Aquarium is caught by divers and fishermen, and returned to exactly where it came from a maximum of four weeks later. Not only is this a big ‘thumbs up’ for the environment, it means that the displays are constantly changing. As well as showing over 60 different species, the aquarium also has a Touch Pool, allowing you to get up close and personal with the local sea life; including crabs, starfish and sea urchins. There’s also a video room, and super-knowledgeable staff on hand to make sure you make the most of your visit. The big kids seemed to be more excited by the octopus and the Touch Pool than the wee ones – myself included!

TOP TIP: Once you’ve bought your ticket, you can use it for the whole day – so you can pop in and out if you wish.

• For more information, visit the Mull Aquarium website

Go Shopping

Tobermory Harbour is lined with lovely independent shops. Whether it’s gifts, souvenirs, artwork or books you’re looking for – this town has got you covered! I collect wee trinkets and homeware from the islands, so whenever I visit Island Blue Tobermory, I want to leave with one of everything. I love the candles, mugs, knitwear, soft toys, and anything featuring a Jolomo print (he’s my favourite Scottish artist).

Nearby, you’ll also find Mull Pottery, Island Crafts, and Tackle & Books which sells maps, wall signs, diaries illustrated by Mairi Hedderwick, and a wide range of books – including children’s books featuring the famous Tobermory Cat by Debi Gliori.

EATING & DRINKING IN TOBERMORY

I want…. seafood.

Being a port town on a Hebridean island, Tobermory is heaven for seafood lovers. Café Fish is my favourite seafood restaurant, and is my top recommendation for anyone visiting the town. This island institution sits right on the waterfront, and is run by two cousins – Jane Gill and Liz McGougan – who source all their seafood fresh from their own fishing boat, or from local fishermen. If the specials menu renders you into a state of hopeless indecision, just order the Café Fish Stew: seriously, you won’t regret it.

On the road into Tobermory, you’ll find another must-visit culinary gem. The restaurant at Hebridean Lodge sits on the mezzanine floor above the gallery and shop, in a relaxed and unpretentious setting. The food is all sourced from local farmers and fishermen, and the standard is absolutely amazing. I had a delicious duck liver pate with pickles, toast and relish, followed by roast fillet of cod with pea puree and Tobermory mussel, chorizo and herb potato croquettes. Amazing!

For something more casual, perch outside on a picnic table with some fish and chips at The Pier Café, which sits right on the pier where the CalMac ferry from Kilchoan arrives, in the building underneath Café Fish. The fish and chips were SO good, and I loved that the tartare sauce was served in an oyster shell. Fish and chips always taste better when eaten outside = FACT.

I want… steak!

If your carnivorous urges have taken over, or you just don’t feel like some fishy on your little dishy, Galleon Grill is where you want to be. The menu features various meat and seafood options, but their specialty is the char-grilled ‘Galleon Steaks’ which are either Aberdeen Angus or from the Ardnamurchan Peninsula just over the water. The steaks are served with hand cut rooster potato chips or a jacket potato, and you can choose from a selection of steaks and accompanying sauces (which come at an extra charge). We opted for the ‘Tomahawk’ special for two people: a giant T-bone with two side dishes. It was an absolute feast, and aye, we did manage to finish it.

I want… cheese!

Isle of Mull Cheese is famous, and for good reason! Scriob Ruadh Farm is the only dairy farm on the island, and they know exactly what they’re doing. The cheese is fresh, free from any added colourings, and once their happy cows have been milked in the morning, the milk is immediately taken to the cheese-making vat to begin production. You might even be lucky enough to witness the milking or cheese making!

Failing that, the Garden Barn café is reason alone to visit. There were vines entwined overhead, brightly coloured bursts of flora, and views stretching over to Ardnamurchan. The homemade sausage rolls are delicious, and you know you’re in for a special toastie when the cheese is made on-site. The resident goats were absolutely hilarious too!

TOP TIP: You can walk from the Tobermory Harbour to the farm in around 30 minutes. For the last part of the walk, keep to the side of the road and look out for passing cars.

I want… whisky!

The distillery in Tobermory was first established in 1798, and it was formerly known as Ledaig. Over the years, it has seen many different owners, and has experienced several periods of closure – some for as long as 40 years. The name was more recently changed to Tobermory Distillery, and it has undergone a rebrand which reflects Tobermory’s colourful character. Tobermory single malt is unpeated, and there are various bottlings and age classifications which fall under this range. If you prefer a smoky whisky, the Ledaig range is for you! Don’t like whisky at all? It’s cool – they’re now distilling gin too.

The distillery is in the throes of a major refurbishment – with lots of the all-important equipment being replaced – so they are not offering tours at the moment. I recommend booking in for a tasting though, where you can sample 3, 4 or 5 drams of your choice.

TOP TIP: If you’d like to buy Tobermory Gin, go to your nearest COOP. This supermarket chain currently has exclusive rights to it, so you can’t actually buy it from the distillery.

I want… something sweet!

Everyone deserves a wee treat – or ten – when they’re on holiday. Tobermory Bakery & Tea Room is filled with freshly baked bread, sweet treats, pastries, pizzas and other deli delights. The perfect place to get cosy with a cuppa and chocolate éclair during a random downpour.

The Gallery was once the Free Church, and now is a café and gift shop. The building is in Gothic Revival style and has a beautiful stained glass window. Inside, there’s a gift shop selling Scottish crafts, textiles, and souvenirs, but I was obviously more interested in the café’s delicious tray bakes.

Isle of Mull Ice Cream Parlour is a yet another colourful addition to Tobermory’s harbour-front. This pretty pink parlour is popular with visitors come rain or shine! Only the best ingredients are used to make the ice-cream: the dairy products come from Scriob Ruadh Farm – the home of Isle of Mull Cheese. You’ll find a selection of classic and interesting flavours, as well as sorbets and frozen yoghurts. Salted hazelnut and raspberry for me please!

Finally, if it’s a chocolate fix you’re after, look no further than Tobermory Handmade Chocolate. The owners have been making their Artisan delights from 1991, and you can treat yourself to individual chocolates, gift boxes, and ‘Death by Drinking Chocolate’. Aye!

WALKS FROM TOBERMORY

Once you’ve exhausted all the available waterfront wandering space, there are two stunning coastal walks which branch off from harbour. Aros Park can be accessed by a wonderful woodland walk which begins just past Mull Aquarium in Ledaig car park. Weave through trees and ferns, and across wee wooden bridges, as you follow the coastline through the forest. The foliage forms perfect peepholes to look back on Tobermory Harbour, and over the Sound of Mull to Calve Island and Ardnamurchan. Discover countless waterfalls, visit the peaceful Aros Pier, and take a walk around the loch – which is blanketed in bright green lily pads. A truly peaceful island oasis.

• The full route, there and back, is around 3.5 miles and takes around 2 hours
• For more information, visit the Walk Highlands website

From the opposite side of Tobermory Harbour, you can walk along the coast to Rubha Nan Gall Lighthouse. This woodland walk is easy and relaxing, spoiling you with non-stop sea views. Ben Hiant on Ardnamurchan dominates the scenery across the water in the background, and before long the striking lighthouse comes into sight. When you arrive at the lighthouse, it is compulsory to find a perch and look longingly into the distance. You see mountains, the village of Kilchoan, more mountains, and even the Isle of Rum on a clear day!

• This walk is also around 3.5 miles and takes around 2 hours
• For more information, visit the Walk Highlands website

DAYS OUT FROM TOBERMORY

Staffa and Treshnish Isles – Staffa Tours offer daily departures to Staffa and the Treshnish Isles from April – September. Look out for birds and marine life as you cruise around Mull’s west coast, before seeing the famous Fingal’s Cave on Staffa up close. If you’re visiting in August, you’ll also get to experience the adorable puffins!

Calgary Bay – this white sandy beach is often described as the most beautiful beach on the island. There is a picnic area, public toilets, and a café at Calgary Arts. Calgary Bay is around 12 miles from Tobermory, and is served by the local bus – which takes just under 1 hour. Buses run infrequently on a Saturday, and not at all on Sundays, so be sure to time your bus back to Tobermory.

Isle of Ulva – book the Ulva Ferry Community Transport bus (£13 each way) from Tobermory to Ulva Ferry, where you can summon the wee ferry – by means of a brilliantly low-tech system – to take you over to the island. On arrival, pop into The Boathouse to pick up a map and plan your walk for the day. Afterwards, treat yourself to an amazing seafood lunch and cake back at The Boathouse. The island has been under community ownership since 2018, and I’m excited to see the future developments for tourism and the population – which is currently sitting at just five.

Ardnamurchan – Tobermory is linked to Kilchaon on the Ardnamurchan Peninsula by a small CalMac ferry which takes just 35 minutes. A car would be needed to independently explore this remote area, or you can book onto a tour with Nature Scotland. Keep an eye out for otters and eagles as you explore beautiful beaches, landscapes, and the most westerly point on the UK mainland.

Isle of Iona – the Isle of Iona is located at the opposite end of Mull from Tobermory, so it would be a very long day – but it is possible if you’re happy to get up early! Catch the local bus from Tobermory to Craignure, then change onto another bus to Fionnphort: the journey takes around 2.5 hours. After just a 10-minute ferry crossing, you have arrived on the most peaceful and beautiful island in Scotland (in my humble opinion). Visit Iona Abbey, Climb Dun I, explore the idyllic white sand beaches, and book in for lunch at the St Columba Hotel.

WHERE TO STAY IN TOBERMORY

I used Tobermory Youth Hostel as the base for my long weekend adventure. The hostel sits on the picturesque harbour-front, sporting a pretty pale-pink facade. Accommodation in Tobermory is expensive, so the hostel is by far the most budget-friendly option – and you don’t have to compromise on location. There are various dorm rooms over two floors, and they all have shared bathrooms.

The key selling points/facilities in Tobermory Youth Hostel are:

• Excellent location within walking distance of the bus stop and the CalMac pier
• Lounge area with sofas, games, leaflets, an electric fire and sea views
• Small kitchen and dining area with everything you need for basic self-catering
• A laundry and drying room – just in case you get caught in an island downpour
• An outside area with bike storage
• Free parking

I stayed in a triple room which was booked as a private, and it was conveniently located on the same floor as the ladies toilets and showers. My room had sea views, a sloped loft-style ceiling, one single bed, and a bunk bed. There was a small mirror, space to hang my clothes, and an electricity outlet next to the door for charging devices. The showers had decent pressure and plenty hot water: they are quite noisy though, so you’re asked not to use them early in the morning or late at night. The beds were comfortable with cosy duvets, and I slept well every night – essential when you’re out exploring all day!

I had breakfast at the hostel, which a wee continental spread of cheese, ham, bread, jams, yoghurts and fruit. A perfectly sufficient way to start the day. Breakfast is served between 08.15 – 09.45 and costs £5.95. There is a COOP supermarket for those who wish to self-cater or if it’s a cooked breakfast you’re after, go to The Tobermory Scullery or the Tobermory Bakery.

Overall, the hostel was clean and comfortable, and Karolina (the hostel manager) was super-friendly and helpful. I found the interior to be quite basic however, and think some home comforts and local artwork would make it more welcoming, and give it a sense of place. I would recommend it to anyone who needs somewhere to freshen up and have a comfortable night’s sleep after a long day exploring.

• Tobermory Youth Hostel is open from March – October
• Check-in is at 17.00 and check-out is at 10.00
• Prices start from £18.50 for a bed in a shared dorm, and £49.50 for a private double

HOW TO GET TO TOBERMORY ON PUBLIC TRANSPORT

Tobermory is easy to reach on public transport, thanks to multiple legs of transport which seamlessly link together. It is a long journey, but the scenery will keep you thoroughly entertained! To reach Tobermory I travelled by:

• Train from Edinburgh – Glasgow – Oban. I always recommend booking 12 weeks in advance for discounted fares on Trainline.
• Ferry from Oban – Craignure (Isle of Mull). Foot passengers don’t need to book in advance, and can simply purchase tickets at Oban Ferry Terminal on the day. You can the timetable on the CalMac website.
• Bus from Craignure – Tobermory. Be sure to check the bus timetable to ensure that your train and ferry times all link together. The bus is operated by West Coast Motors.

This post is sponsored by Hostelling Scotland in a campaign to promote Tobermory and Tobermory Youth Hostel. As always, all content, opinions & chaotic behaviour are my own.

Happy travels!

Kay 💙