Ardnamurchan & the West Highland Peninsulas

Intrigued by Ardnamurchan and the West Highland Peninsulas or already in on the secret? Either way, there will be something here to spark your interest; wellness activities, remote beaches, whisky distilleries, so many quality eateries, and a famous lighthouse.

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This blog brings together all my experiences in this area, from paid campaigns with West Highland Peninsulas and West Coast Waters to my own holidays and adventures.

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If you crave calmness, have an affinity with the outdoors and are more inclined to drive away from the tourist trail than towards it, you need the West Highland Peninsulas in your life. Take all the rugged, romantic appeal of the Scottish Highlands, throw in miles of paradise coastline, then remove the crowds of tourists. You have now arrived at your destination.

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Where are the West Highland Peninsulas?

Of course, the clue is in the name, but to be more specific, the West Highland Peninsulas sprawl out from Road to the Isles on the West Coast, and are surrounded by the waters of Loch Linnhe to the south, the Sound of Mull to the west and the Atlantic Ocean for the rest!

While lots of people refer to the West Highland Peninsulas collectively as Ardnamurchan, this won’t earn you any brownie points with the locals. There are five peninsulas in total:

Ardgour, Ardnamurchan, Morvern, Sunart, and Moidart

At times, the closeness to the coast and the distance from busy civilisation will fool you into thinking you’re on an island, and you won’t even realise when you’ve crossed from one peninsula to the next.

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Getting to Ardnamurchan & the West Highland Peninsulas

The West Highland Peninsulas are in the same region of the Highlands as some super-popular destinations – e.g. Glencoe, Fort William and Glenfinnan – but the extra time and effort it takes to get there means that it’s not somewhere you simply stumble upon or choose to take a casual detour to. There are several ways to get there, and every single one can be classed as ‘the scenic route’.

Long drives are always involved and possibly a short ferry crossing, two of which are from the Isle of Mull. This, thankfully, keeps the masses at bay.

Here are your options for travelling to the West Highland Peninsulas:

• Ferry from Corran (near Fort William) to Ardgour – this short crossing takes under 10 minutes and operates as a ‘turn up and go’ service. This is the route I would usually take when coming from the south.
• Ferry from Fishnish (Mull) to Morvern – if you’re extending your trip with a visit to Mull, the ferry port at Fishnish sits between Craignure and Tobermory. This is a ‘turn-up and go service’ and the crossing takes 18 minutes. This route is perfect for exploring the often overlooked Morvern peninsula.
• Ferry from Tobermory (Mull) to Kilchoan – this route is popular for visitors staying in Ardnamurchan who want to visit Tobermory for the day, and vice versa, and anyone planning to do a longer road trip including Mull. This ferry is also a ‘turn up and go’ service and the crossing takes 35 minutes. If you were only planning to stay in Tobermory for the day, you could just leave the car at Kilchoan.
• Drive in from the A830 (Road to the Isles) – either turn off onto the A861 just after Kinlocheil for Ardgour or at Lochailort for Morvern. This road is known as the ‘long way round’ and would be an extended, extra scenic detour from Fort William to Mallaig.

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If you are planning to extend your trip, check out my Isle of Mull guide for lots of practical advice and travel inspiration

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The Best Time of Year to Visit

For my 2021 summer holiday, I spent a whole week in Ardnamurchan and it was glorious. We swam in the sea every day, had barbeques at our caravan and saw thousands of puffins on the Isle of Lunga. It was the middle of the school holidays and there were still noticeably less visitors than I’d seen in other parts of Scotland that summer.

Despite being only around 45 minutes from some of the most popular destinations on the West Coast, these peninsulas are still under the radar to many, and far from the throws of over-tourism. If you’re looking for the “beaten track”, you won’t find it here.

I will absolutely return during the summer months, but my favourite time to visit will always be autumn. You don’t even need to be in a forest to appreciate the season when the landscapes are draped in amber. There is a sharp freshness to the air, there are even less visitors around, and it is as beautiful as can be with stunning reflections in the glassy-still Loch Sunart.

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Why it’s the Perfect Escape

If you live a busy life or just need to take some time out to refresh and reset, there are so many reasons why the West Highland Peninsulas are the perfect place to be. If scenery alone could heal us, these peninsulas would have us completely cured.

Picture a wild paradise of vast, otherworldly landscapes, ancient forests, tranquil lochs, rugged hills and breathtaking beaches. The appeal of this destination runs far deeper than just good looks, however.

From the moment you arrive, it’s like you’ve passed through a portal into a separate world, one where everything feels more wholesome and calm, where people really care about the environment and each other. Even the winding, single-track roads seem to be deliberately designed to slow you down and ensure you are present in the moment.

Most of all, the absence of crowds will have you scratching your head in disbelief, and smiling contentedly. Coming from a busy city, having whole outdoor spaces to yourself is a rare and wonderful treat. The fact that phone signal and internet is non-existent in parts is an added bonus, allowing you to escape the over-stimulation of social media and any pressures of life back home.

Water Wellness

The benefits of ‘water wellness’ are very well publicised these days with more people than ever craving time by the sea and adopting new hobbies like wild swimming and stand up paddle boarding to boost their physical and mental health.

The West Highland Peninsulas’ proximity and connection to the coast means that opportunities to inhale the sea air and dive into water based activities are yours for the taking. Here are some ‘water wellness’ activities to try on your visit.

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Wild Swimming with Swim Highlands

Laura, who is a certified outdoor swimming guide, loves getting people out into the water and set up Swim Highlands to offer coaching, guided wild swims and equipment hire from her base in Strontian. Before setting off from the wee jetty by the loch, I was provided with a wet suit, cap, socks, gloves, and goggles, then off into Loch Sunart we went.

The water took my breath away at first – both from the serenity and the cold – then I relaxed into a lovely, leisurely swim. Laura kept checking that I was feeling okay, and when she realised I was clearly in my element, suggested jumping in from the jetty at the end of our swim. I felt amazing afterwards, particularly after a hot drink and chocolates in my Dry Robe, courtesy of Laura.

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Kayaking with Otter Adventures

My first time kayaking was on Loch Sunart with Karl from Otter Adventures. Having worked in outdoor education since his teens, Karl’s experience and passion for the outdoors are second to none, and his trips can be catered to all levels.

My fear of the unknown – rooted in visions of capsizing – sent me into a brief state of panic but this quickly dissipated when we took to the water, and I realised that the simple act of sitting up straight is the main requirement. Once I settled into my wee rhythm of paddling, I was hit by an immense sense of calm.

When you’re so physically close to the water, you feel blissfully swallowed up by your surroundings. I’ve now been kayaking several times since my first trip with Karl.

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Ardnamurchan’s hidden beaches

A simple stroll along the beach is enough to calm and clear your mind, and immerse your senses in the sights, sounds and smells. Ardnamurchan has some really special remote beaches and Sanna Bay is the best known of them all thanks to its pure white sand, turquoise sea, rolling dunes, and rocky terrain. The long drive to the beach takes you through the crater of an extinct volcano and the beauty of this beach will blow you away, even on a dreich day.

For somewhere less accessible, and more rewarding as a result, head to the Singing Sands near Kentra. Getting to the beach involves a 6-mile there-and-back walk alongside Kentra Bay and through the forest, but let me assure you, it’s totally worth it. This secluded spot boasts views out to the Small Isles and a long sweep of white sand, which sits against a backdrop of forest.

Another wee gem of a beach is tucked away at Ardtoe where a series of beautiful bays are broken up by rocky outcrops. I stayed nearby on my summer holiday and loved coming here to swim at dusk. Prepare for tight corners on the windy road to get there, and keep an eye out for the menacing ‘monster midge’!

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Boat trips to Staffa

Feel the benefits of the sea without actually getting in, on a boat trip to Staffa and the Treshnish Isles with Staffa Tours (August and September only). The tour departs from Kilchoan in Ardnamurchan and travels round the north and west coast of Mull en route to the islands.

Stand out on deck soaking up the sights of the sea and the majestic coastline of Mull, keeping an eye out for dolphins and minke whales, who often make an appearance. Soon, Staffa’s famous Fingal’s Cave is in sight and thousands of puffins await on Staffa and Lunga. From the wildlife watching, to the island scenery, this is a truly unforgettable day out!

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More Wellbeing Experiences

The focus on wellbeing around these parts isn’t limited to water-based activities and I was welcomed by a number of locals who not only look after their own health and wellbeing, but share and promote their own passions and practises for the benefit of others.

Forest Bathing with Hugh from Darach Croft

Forest bathing is a mindfulness practice, where you are encouraged to slowly walk through the forest, bathing in all the sights, sounds, smells and feelings. Hugh guided us through the experience and I soon became acutely aware of my surroundings and realised that this experience is very different from my usual brisk walks in the forest. Taking time to slow down and really tune was like a brief bid for freedom from my thoughts and busy routine.

Darach Croft is a Social Crofting initiative which provides support and wellbeing experiences to people with learning difficulties, emotional challenges and mental health issues. The croft is open to all visitors however, including the Goat Walking Experience with Hugh’s adorable, friendly Pygmy goats.

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West Highland Herbal

Clare Holohan, who is originally from Glasgow, trained chef but now dedicates her life to plant medicine, holistic health and massage therapy from her base on the Morvern peninsula. A keen forager, Claire also grows her own plants and herbs, runs clinics online and in her West Highland Herbal studio, and delivers workshops and wellness retreats.

During lockdown, she even published her own book ‘Scotland’s Wild Medicine’ with the support of a successful Kickstarter campaign. Meeting Clare really sparked my interest in looking to the natural world (and my diet!) for ways to manage health and wellbeing.

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Mindful Art

Nic Goddard and Justine Dunn are a lovely, creatively talented pair of locals who have been involved in various initiatives around mental health. During lockdown, they offered online art sessions as a way of bringing people together and giving them a creative outlet. I joined them at the Ariundle Centre for a mindful art experience, which I was apprehensive about, as I’ve always shied away from anything arty or crafty. While I’m certainly no aspiring artist, the experience gave me an opportunity to focus, be still, and create something as I saw it.

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Top Things to do in Ardnamurchan, Morvern & Moidart

Ardnamurchan Point

Ardnamurchan Point is the furthest west you can go on the peninsula, and on the whole of the UK mainland. This remote location is dominated by the striking Ardnamurchan Lighthouse, which was completed under the watchful eye of Alan Stevenson in 1849; the Stevenson family are famous in Scotland for their lighthouse engineering.

Ardnamurchan Lighthouse has played a vital role in safe sea passage round the West Coast, and is still in use today: it is now automated and monitored by the Northern Lighthouse Board HQ, which is based in the unexpected location of George Street in Edinburgh. 

Venture inside the lighthouse to browse the displays in the exhibition centre and listen to a guided talk from inside the lantern room (see bullet points below). The climb is more than worth it for the epic views from the top! Be sure to visit the fantastic coffee shop while you’re there and look out for the four-legged local celebrities Ted and Peigi.

• Tours inside the lighthouse are still on hold due to social distancing/hygiene measures.
• Some parts of the lighthouse complex are inaccessible due to ongoing improvement works

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Ardnamurchan Distillery

Having only officially opened in July 2014, Ardnamurchan Distillery is one of Scotland’s newest distilleries and it is the first (legal 😉 ) whisky distillery in Ardnamurchan. Located in the small village of Drumbeg, on the drive between Salen and Kilchoan, the distillery prides itself on its tiny impact on the environment, being powered and heated by local renewables.

Whisky production is well underway behind the scenes, and the first bottling of Ardnamurchan single malt was released in 2020. Tours and Tastings aren’t operating at the moment due to Covid restrictions, but the distillery shop is open on weekdays.

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Castle Tioram

Castle Tioram (pronounced chee-rum) is one of those truly iconic Scottish ruins. The remains of its impenetrable design are perched atop a rocky outcrop on Eilean Tioram, a tidal island which sits at the point where the waters of Loch Moidart and the River Shiel come together. Built in the 13^th century, the castle was once home to Clan Ranald, and while the castle itself is now inaccessible, you can walk across to the island from Dorlin at low tide for a closer look.

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Ardnamurchan Natural History Centre

Visit Ardnamurchan Natural History Centre to learn all about the area’s wildlife, natural environment, and the historic ruins which scatter the landscape. There is an exhibition centre with lots of interesting displays, as well as The Living Building, which was actually created as a natural habitat for wildlife to take up residence. I enjoyed a hearty venison stew from The Loch View Tearoom and enjoyed browsing the gifts and crafts in the Antler Gift Shop.

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Aoineadh Mor

The abandoned township Aoineadh Mor (Inniemor) is scattered along the riverside and guarded by a huddle of hills on the Morvern peninsula. Accessed through an enchanting woodland, with the option of taking the high or low path: we did a loop and the views from the higher ground were incredible.

Collapsed, low-lying walls are all that remain of the village; a reminder of the community which once was and the dark period in Scotland’s history which forced them to leave. The Highland Clearances saw residents of the Highlands and Islands forcefully evicted from their homes to make way for sheep farming.

The Forestry Commission, who cleared the overgrown village to reveal the remnants, have installed a bench with an audio description giving Mary Cameron’s heartbreaking account of the day they left their home forever. The sight and story of Aoineadh Mor is one that stays with you well after you’ve gone.

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Nc’Nean Distillery

Nc-nean Distillery, which sits on the Drimnin Estate in Morvern, is an independent, eco-conscious distillery which use 100% organic Scottish barley and believe that ‘nature knows best’. All of their energy is renewably sourced, their bottles are made from recycled glass, and trees are planted to replace the wood which was taken from the nearby forest to generate heat. They even grow fruit and veg in the warm conditions of the Still House!

In 2020, Nc’Nean became the first distillery in the UK to achieve net zero carbon emissions, a whole two decades ahead of the 2040 target for the industry. There is a distillery shop and tours run twice per day (closed at the weekend).

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Best Places to Eat: Ardnamurchan, Morvern & Moidart

• Nomad Carvan Café, Clovullin – a wonderful wee business in Ardgour serving gourmet toasties, Argyll Coffee Roasters coffee and homemade sweet treats from a converted 1960s caravan. An ideal pitstop on your way to or from the Corran ferry.
• Café Tioram, Ardnamurchan – a cute, colourful and friendly wee eatery in the village of Acharacle serving breakfast, lunches and home baking. The full Scottish breakfast, served with a slice of clootie dumpling, is fantastic.
• Mingarry Park, Moidart – for something special, this is the best place to eat in the whole area. The quality of the food is absolutely outstanding – I’m talking super-local venison, fresh seafood and daily baked breads and pastries. A real treat!
• Puffin Coffee, Ardnamurchan – for excellent coffee, this is your place. Located on the road to the ferry port at Kilchoan, this welcoming wee café serves breakfast rolls, pastries, toasties and sweet treats.
• Glenuig Inn, Moidart – now under new ownership, this village pub serves food all day and is open year-round. The lunchtime menu is limited to soup and sandwiches, so I’d like to return for dinner as the seafood chowder was tasty!
• The Nest Bistro, Morvern – a new, homely pop-up eatery in The Whitehouse Restaurant in Lochaline, run by the loveliest mother and daughter duo. Their energy is infectious and the comfort food is delicious. The restaurant is currently up for sale and I’ll be sad if they are no longer there on my next visit.
• Lochaline Community Hub, Morvern – a wee café in the gorgeous, new, community hub in the heart of Lochaline village. I don’t think I’ve ever got so excited over a bowl of soup (delicious), served with homemade cheese scones. The pumpkin spiced latte and cake was also a delight – and very fitting for the occasion – Halloween!

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Supermarkets and Fuel

There is a petrol station in Kilchoan and next to the village shop in Strontian with beautiful views over Loch Sunart. If you are visiting Morvern, you’ll find Lochaline Filling Station; a 24/7 self-serve petrol station, managed by the local community. It is wise to fill up your tank in Mallaig or Fort William before arriving, as there are long drives on the peninsulas and the petrol station opening times can vary.

The same applies to food shopping. If you are coming on a longer trip, you might want to do a big shop for essentials in Fort William or Oban, then top up with lots of lovely local produce when you’re there. Here are some local shops you can support:

• Glenuig Community Shop – a quirky wee treasure trove of a place, staffed by volunteers, which wouldn’t be nearly as charming if it were perfectly tidy and orderly.
• Ardshealach Smokehouse – also in Glenuig, this dreamy wee place sells meats, cheeses, and fish which are all smoked and packaged on-site.
• Salen Jetty Shop – a fantastic, well-stocked shop next to the bay at Salen with local meats, cheeses, salmon and also serving hot drinks, soup, pies and amazing homemade cakes.
• Ardgour Ales – this is your place for local, award-winning Real Ales from a small, independent brewery. Stock up when you arrive off the Corran ferry or pop by on your way home to pick up some souvenir beer.

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Where to stay in Ardnamurchan & Morvern

Ardtornish Estate

Ardtornish Estate – my top recommendation is this incredible estate in Morvern. There are cottages, a Victorian Mansion building, a bunkhouse, and a studio to choose from. On my first visit, I stayed in the massive Billiard Room Flat in Ardtornish House and aside from some modern touches, like electricity and WiFi, the property seems relatively unchanged since Victorian times, with ‘period drama’ style decor and furnishings; even the bells for the servants are still there. It is really something else.

On my most recent trip, we stayed in The Bunkhouse Studio which was such a cosy and comfortable base for our adventure. I loved spending the dark evenings curled up on the couch with the wood-burner crackling away.

For an even more unique experience, you can stay in a bothy on the estate which is maintained by the Mountain Bothies Association. You can read all about my night in the bothy here.

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Adene Croft Caravan

On my summer holiday we stayed in this caravan on a croft near Kentra Bay and it completely exceeded my expectations. It was beautifully clean, comfortable and well kitted out. Our host Jackie had left chunks of moist carrot cake on the dining table to welcome us – just one of the incredibly thoughtful wee touches throughout.

What had me completely awestruck, however, was what lay beyond our shelter: fields, moorland and mountains. The complete silence was a comfort, as was the stunning perspective of Ben Resipole, guarding the land from a distance; I loved watching the play of light on its surface, the sky casting abstract shapes, shadows and golden colours.

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Isle of Carna

Carna is a privately-owned island on Loch Sunart, which you can hire for the ultimate secluded escape. Say goodbye to the modern world as you know it, as your 4G and phone reception slip away on the boat journey to the island from the village of Laga.

The island is managed by a legend of a local man called Andy Jackson, who is fiercely passionate about restoring the island, and protecting the marine environment all around it. Like many of the people I encounter on my travels, Andy has lived a very interesting life, both in Scotland and overseas.

On Carna, there is a cottage which overlooks the jetty (prime, otter spotting territory), and a house further round the bay, which was built in the 1920s. We stayed in the house and had no electricity, sparing one plug socket. For entertainment, the shelves are lined with books and maps – and there’s nothing like a hot bath to conclude a day of exploring. We had the gas lamps on, and the fire roaring in no time.

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Top tip for self-catering

Order a hamper of home-cooked delights from the lovely Kate at the Ariundel Centre to take with you. Kate is the lady behind the highly sought-after ‘Crazy Knits’, which are sold in the Craft Shop inside the centre.

The wool comes from the family’s own sheep, which Kate cleans, cards, and spins by hand.

Kate bought a knitting machine with the insurance money she claimed when her wedding ring was stolen, and the rest, as they say, is history!

I enjoyed a hamper of smoked trout pate, followed by braised beef with vegetables and plum crumble with Greek yoghurt. It’s is a fantastic service if you don’t want the hassle of cooking.

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Ardnamurchan & the West Highland Peninsulas

I hope this has given you some inspiration for your own adventure to the West Highland Peninsulas. I offer Itinerary Planning services if you would like me to create a bespoke trip for you. Here are some other blogs I think you’ll like.

Scotland West Coast Road Trip Itinerary

Road to the Isles: Destination Guide

Isle of Mull: Ultimate Destination Guide & Travel Inspiration

Glamping in Glencoe: the pod, the food, and the scenery

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This post is sponsored by West Highland Peninsulas and West Coast Waters. As always, all content, opinions & chaotic behaviour are my own.

Happy travels!

Kay 💙

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