Adventure on Road to the Isles

This post was written as part of a paid campaign with Road to the Isles, covering all my favourite things to do, my top tips for visiting, how to travel responsibly and why this area is perfect for a cosy autumn/winter escape.

Road to the Isles is far more than just a scenic drive. This stunningly beautiful 43-mile route is a voyage through wild landscapes and undulating Highland heights before reaching the coast, in pursuit of the most heavenly white sand beaches.

The road brings together a series of truly iconic and breathtakingly bonnie destinations, so regardless of which you choose as your base, the others are all comfortingly close and yours to discover.

This is a place to slow down, explore freely, and indulge in all the good stuff: fresh air, stunning views, and delicious food. The area has significant connections to the real-life history of the Jacobites and the fantasy world of Harry Potter.

Road to the Isles is popular for good reason, but if you time it just right, you can avoid the crowds, relish the peace, and ‘coorie in’ after a refreshing day outdoors. Some roads aren’t just for driving, and this is one of them.

Where is Road to the Isles?

Road to the Isles, known less glamorously as the A830, stretches from Fort William, ‘Outdoor Capital of the UK’, to the port town of Mallaig on the West Coast in the Lochaber region of the Highlands. Beginning from the south in Fort William, Road to the Isles is made up of the following destinations: Glenfinnan, Lochailort, Arisaig, Morar and Mallaig. From Mallaig there are ferries to Knoydart, the Small Isles and Skye.

To reach the start of (the) Road to the Isles, the driving distances to Fort William are:

2 hours 40 minutes from Glasgow
3 hours 10 minutes from Edinburgh
1 hour 45 minutes from Inverness

Best time to visit Road to the Isles

The beaches in Morar and Arisaig were never going to stay a secret forever, and now the cat is well and truly out of the bag. With soft, white sand and dazzling clear water – which is a pleasant temperature thanks to the Gulf Stream – the Silver Sands of Morar and Camusdarach Beach are sheer perfection on a summer’s day. So, what’s the catch?

During summer 2021, when lockdown restrictions eased but international travel was still off the cards, visitors flocked to these beaches en masse, re-creating scenes from a music festival campsite. Personally, this is not my idea of idyllic and I do my very best to avoid touristy hot-spots during the peak months and school summer holidays.

Apart from the Easter holidays, which is also very busy, spring is a lovely time to travel; businesses are reopening for the season, the Jacobite Steam Train is chugging away on the West Highland Line again, and there are more daylight hours to play with.

My wild card suggestion for you, however, is to experience the area when there is hardly anyone else around: say hello to autumn and winter! My most recent trip to Road to the Isles was during autumn and it was a dream. The peacefulness was palpable, the autumn scenery was beyond beautiful, and I kept myself cosy with warm layers, drams of whisky and lots of lovely comfort food.

During autumn and winter, there is a lot less going on and a number of businesses do close for the season, but the scenic surroundings and fresh air will always be there – just minus all the other people in the way! This, for me, makes it the best time to visit.

I wrote about a guest blog about visiting the area in the autumn and winter months, you can read it here

Road to the Isles Responsible Travel

Let’s address the elephant in the room. This very special part of the West Coast hit the press a number of times during the summer months, and not for the right reasons. Tales of “dirty campers”, unpleasant behaviour and rows of camper-vans blocking the road and parked on the delicate machair were enough to enrage both locals and visitors who love and respect the place.

During my autumn walk on the Silver Sands of Morar, I bumped into Matthew from Highland Ranger Service, who was measuring the impact of rainfall and footfall (mainly the latter) on the footpaths to the beach.

We spoke about the summer crowds and his message was clear; they absolutely want people to visit the area but they must do so responsibly, and a more even spread of visitors throughout the year would make a huge difference. Here’s how you can do your bit:

Familiarise yourself with the Scottish Outdoor Access Code and always keep the main three principles in mind: respecting others, caring for the environment and taking responsibility for your own actions.
If you are visiting in a campervan/motorhome, prebook a local campsite. Motorised vehicles are not included in The ‘Freedom to Roam’ in Scotland, therefore you can’t just pull over and park up where you like – even if others appear to be doing just that. Check out Sunnyside Croft Touring Site, Camusdarach Camping and Silversands Caravan and Campsite.
Consider visiting outside of the busy period. Lots of people view Road to the Isles as a summer destination, but Road to the Isles is stunning at any time of year. Go against the grain and choose Road to the Isles are a cosy autumn/winter getaway.
Spend your money locally rather than stocking up on everything you need in a chain supermarket. Book an activity, go out for dinner or grab takeaway fish and chips, and consider leaving a donation at the public toilets to help with their upkeep.

Silver Sands of Morar, Road to the Isles

Road to the Isles by Public Transport

Road to the Isles is ideal road-trip territory (the clue is in the name), however the West Highland Line follows the same route from Fort William to Mallaig so it is absolutely possible to visit without a car. These are my top tips for visiting without a car:

Set up at ticket alert on TheTrainLine for the journey from Glasgow or Fort William – this will notify you 12 weeks ahead of travel when the best priced fares go on sale.
Base yourself in Mallaig or Arisaig village so that you have places to eat and drink within walking distance. You’re also on the train line there and there are boat trips and ferries to the islands and Knoydart peninsula.
Plan your days in advance around the train/bus timetables so you don’t end up stuck and having to source/pay for a taxi.

Road to the Isles: My Top Things to Do

Discover Loch Morar

You think Loch Ness is the most mysterious of them all, Loch Morar blows it right out the water (pun intended)! Its murky depths plunge as far as 310 meters below the surface, making it not only the deepest loch in Scotland, but the deepest body of freshwater in the whole of the British Isles. To top it off, Loch Morar is said to have its very own monster too; Nessie’s cousin Morag, of course!

Claims to fame aside, Loch Morar is a breathtaking sight to behold. It feels like a hidden secret – a really big one at that – yet is just a short detour from the village of Morar towards Bracara. The road closely traces the shores of the loch for most of the way, along a tightly winding road: one way in, one way out.

At the road end, follow the sign for ‘Stoul’ and climb uphill for a few minutes to reveal a glorious perspective of the vast and atmospheric loch and the equally captivating scenery which frames it. Make a day of it by walking the trail from Bracara to Tarbet (5.5 miles).

Return via the same route or prebook the Western Isles Cruise to Mallaig which leaves at 15.30 (May – Sept). From Mallaig, prebook a taxi back to your car at Bracara (5.8 miles) or jump on the train to Moray and walk from there (2.8 miles).

Go island-hopping in the Small Isles

Mallaig is the gateway to the Small Isles of Eigg, Muck, Rum and Canna. Each island has its own unique character and charm, and when the summer timetable is operating (March – October) it is possible to take a day trip on certain days – although I would recommend staying a little longer if you have time.

So far I’ve visited Eigg and Canna and absolutely loved both islands, staying in Cleadale Bothy on Eigg and Sanday Caravan on Sanday, which is connected to Canna by a wee bridge. Muck and Rum are on the list for 2022! My top suggestions for the islands I’ve been to are:

Eigg – hire a bike from Eigg Adventures and cycle to the Singing Sands and/or climb An Sgurr.
Canna – walk to Prison Rock and Black Beach (Canna) and Traigh Bhàn (Sanday). Book a table at Canna Café (open from May) and call them before 1pm the previous day to pre-order the Canna Bay Platter. Amazing!

Prison Rock and Black Beach, Isle of Canna

Eat fresh seafood in Mallaig

The name Mallaig comes from the Norse for “Bay of the Seabirds”, and this wee corner of the coast was where Viking longboats once arrived during the notorious raids of that era. Mallaig’s fishing heritage stems from far more recent times. The first pier was constructed in 1864.

The harbour became the largest European herring port in the 1960/70s, and while there are considerably less fishing boats now than in the ‘Herring heyday’, Mallaig is still a mecca for prawn and langoustine landings.

Where to try seafood in Mallaig

The Cabin – this is my top pick for sit-in or takeaway. I love the grilled monkfish which is served with a mountain of chips! The fish and chips is also excellent and you can also order lobster and langoustine etc. The restaurant closes for the season at the end of October.
Chlachain Inn – open year-round, this friendly bar and restaurant has a menu of fresh seafood and comfort food classics. During the autumn/winter months, you’ll find the fire on and if you’re visiting during the festive season, enquire about their Christmas party nights.

Grilled monkfish from The Cabin, Mallaig

Take a day trip to Knoydart

The Knoydart peninsula is romanticised as ‘Britain’s Last Wilderness’ thanks to its remote location, completely removed from the UK road network. There are two ways in: a 14 mile hike from Kinloch Hourn or a 40-minute boat ride from Mallaig with Western Isles Cruises. I’ll do the walk one day!

After a scenic journey across Loch Nevis, the pretty village of Inverie is soon within sight, its row of wee white buildings dwarfed by a towering backdrop. Inverie is where you’ll find the local shop, the public toilets, the tea room, the bunkhouse, the campsite and The Old Forge, the most remote pub in the UK.

After years under the ownership of a rather controversial character, the pub is now up for sale and the locals are campaigning and raising funds for a community buyout. The Knoydart Estate has been community-owned since 1999 and hopefully this legendary pub will go the same way. You can keep up to date and donate to The Old Forge Community Buyout Scheme on their website and Instagram.

Things to do in Inverie, Knoydart

Have lunch at Knoydart Tea Room – a cute wee place serving hot lunches and home baking. Grab a table on the viewing deck outside, if the weather permits.
Walk along to Knoydart Campsite and Long Beach – follow the straight, flat track along through the village and past the bunkhouse to the campsite on Long Beach for lovely views across the bay. Perfect spot for a flask of your warming drink of choice – whisky maybe!
Hire a bike – bikes can be prebooked through the Knoydart Foundation Ranger Service and eBikes are also available through Knoydart House: this would be a great option for cycling up the hill towards Doune.
Visit Knoydart Brewery– a hidden gem contained within an old chapel. Opened in 2018, the beers are brewed with the freshest, clean water which flows from the mountains of nearby Glen Guiserein: it really is ‘wilderness in a bottle’. Grab some beers to takeaway and enjoy further round the coast, or at The Table; a makeshift wooden drinking shack oppose The Old Forge.
Go for dinner at The Lookout– if you decided to stay overnight or go back on the evening ferry, book a table in the restaurant at The Gathering. This is on my list for next time!

View of Inverie, Knoydart from the water

Have a beach day in Arisaig

When it comes to beaches in Scotland, Camusdarach is right up there in the fairest of them all. Machair covered sand dunes give way to flawless white sand, bright blue sea, and views across to the Small Isles on a clear day. Fans of the Scottish cult classic, Local Hero, will recognise it from the film as ‘Ben’s Beach’.

On my autumn visit, there was no one else around. It was windy and too choppy to attempt a swim, but the chill in the air and the warm colours of the landscape made me feel so alive. Even under grey skies with waves tumbling towards the shores, turquoise patches still glow under the surface of the water and the sheer beauty of it all is enough to blow your socks off.

The Silver Sands of Morar is also worth a visit, or for something more hidden/less easily accessible, walk to Port na Murrach at the end of the Rhu Peninsula.

Camusdarach Beach in autumn, Road to the Isles (Arisaig)

Visit the Land, Sea & Islands Centre

The Land, Sea & Islands Centre celebrates all things ‘Arisaig’ across a range of displays and artifacts, housed within a lovingly refurbished smiddy in Arisaig village. Learn about the local history archaeology, wildlife, marine life, and the secret agents who trained in Arisaig during World War II.

The centre is managed by volunteers from the Arisaig Community Trust and I was warmly welcomed by the lovely Henrik. The centre is free to visit, open all year round and has a gorgeous wee shop selling Arisaig gifts, books, and crafts.

Land, Sea & Islands Centre, Arisaig (Road to the Isles)

Treat yourself at The Bakehouse, Mallaig

Possibly my favourite bakery in the whole country, The Bakehouse is truly amazing, and it’s right on the harbourfront. If you’re staying in Mallaig, go for coffee and morning pastries, fresh out the oven and still warm. I am obsessed with almond croissants and their’s is one of the very best I’ve tasted. You’ll also find incredible sourdough flatbreads, cakes, brownies and bags of granola.

To top it off, they have The Crannog Pizzeria next door which serves hand-stretched sourdough pizzas on weekends during the spring/summer months.

Go kayaking in Arisaig

Get up close and personal with the idyllic coastline along Road to the Isles on a guided sea kayaking trip from Arisaig (spring/summer only). Arisaig Sea Kayak Centre offer day trips which are suitable for beginners and more experienced kayakers.

My autumn trip was cancelled sadly due to high winds (this can of course happen at any time of year) but I managed to do a trip during my summer holiday to Ardnamurchan. We paddled out to wee islands and skerries with pure white sand beaches under the watchful eye of the many resident seals. The water was so clear, I could see everything below the surface and the backdrop of untamed mountains over on the mainland was pretty special!

Order a picnic from West Highland Hotel

During my autumn visit to the area, I was kindly gifted a picnic hamper from the West Highland Hotel in Mallaig. It weighed a tonne and I quickly discovered why when we started to unpack it on a picnic table in Arisaig village. There was a flask filled with homemade Cullen Skink, fresh seafood, meats, cheeses, salad, bread, oatcakes, scones, fresh fruit and a wee bag of Scottish tablet. I was absolutely blown away and spent the next two days grazing on the picnic delights.

Previously, the picnic hampers were offered as an optional-add on to hotel guests in the lead up to their arrival, however they will be available to non-residents in future. This would be perfect for a family or for a very hungry couple who are staying in the area for a few days.

Picnic from the West Highland Hotel, Mallaig

Ride the Jacobite Steam Train

The Jacobite Steam Train is now world-famous and a bucket-list experience in Scotland, thanks to its role as the Hogwarts Express in the Harry Potter films. The steam train operates between Fort William and Mallaig (May – Oct), travelling the full Road to the Isles and back again, on what has been deemed one of the world’s most scenic railway journeys.

If you don’t get the chance to go on the steam train, you can still see it from various locations on Road to the Isles, including the terminus at Mallaig where it stops from 12.26 – 14.10 or 15.01 – 16.45. The most impressive however, is watching the train cross the Glenfinnan Viaduct.

I attempted to visit the site during the summer, but left immediately when I saw how busy it was with tour buses and crowds of people. Not my idea of fun! I returned in October and it was much better but was the busiest location by far on Road to the Isles. It was worth it though, both for the stunning autumn scenery and for the excitement of seeing the train crossing the bridge.

Top tips for seeing Jacobite Steam Train at Glenfinnan

For the best experience, avoid it in the summer months if you can.
Arrive at 10.00 and position yourself on the hill to the left (if you are facing the bridge) so that the train is coming towards you.
Arrive at 15.00 and position yourself on the opposite side to see the train heading south from Mallaig.

Jacobite Steam Train crossing the Glenfinnan Viaduct. One of the top things to do on Road to the Isles.

Road to the Isles: Where to Stay

There are lots of B&Bs, hotels, lodges, campsites and glamping pods located all along Road to the Isles. I would suggest deciding on where you would like to base yourself then start your accommodation search from there.

Shelterdeck at The Moorings, Mallaig – this is a fantastic new ‘tiny house’ accommodation in the garden of The Moorings guesthouse. This self-catering hideaway has a full kitchen, bathroom and open plan bedroom, lounge and dining area. Heather was such a lovely host and the other massive bonus is that it’s just across the street from The Bakehouse!
West Highland Hotel, Mallaig – on a previous trip I stayed in this lovely hotel up the hill from Mallaig Town Centre. It has a lounge area with fireplaces, comfortable rooms, an onsite bar and a restaurant serving breakfast and dinner.
Glenfinnan House Hotel– this gorgeous country hotel overlooks Loch Shiel and is packed with historic character. I’ve only been in for a drink in the bar and immediately wanted to stay, thanks to the roaring fire, elaborate décor, and tempting food menu. It’s on the list!

Shelterdeck at The Moorings, Mallaig — The bedroom at Shelterdeck at The Moorings

ROAD TO THE ISLES: DESTINATION GUIDE

Thanks so much for reading and I hope this has given you some ideas and inspiration. If you need more help planning your dream trip in Scotland, check out my Itinerary Planning Services. Here are some other posts I think you’ll like.

Isle of Mull: The Ultimate Guide and Travel Inspiration

Adventurous Things to Do on the Isle of Tiree

The Slate Islands Travel Guide

Isle of Arran: Top Things to Do and Places to Eat