My Favourite Things to Do on Islay
Islay is the Disneyland of drams, but there’s plenty more magic to be discovered even if whisky isn’t your tipple; fresh seafood, bonnie beaches, ancient ruins, and mischievous wildlife. Here are my top things to do on Islay. I would also recommend reading my practical guide to visiting Islay.
I have visited Islay four times, once on a paid campaign called ‘The Heart & Soul of Scotland’ with Wild About Argyll and People Make Glasgow and once on a campaign to rediscover Islay after lockdown with Explore Islay and Jura.
You know you’re in a happy place when the air smells of the sea and single malt. Islay is an island of indulgence, and I didn’t feel the least bit guilty about getting stuck in. With nine distilleries, whisky is the beating heart of Islay, but the island’s culinary scene is now shifting into the spotlight; and rightly so.
Expect to find locally reared meat, free-range eggs, gourmet tablet (a super-sugary and delightful Scottish treat), and the freshest of fresh seafood. To fully indulge, a decent daily budget will be required to cover the cost of accommodation, eating out, and whisky consumption. Money well spent, if you ask me.
Food and drink aside, Islay is a stunning island with so much to see and do. Whether you’re a fully-fledged whisky enthusiast or you just fancy dipping your toe into the ‘water of life’, there’s a wee slice of Islay life to be enjoyed by all. Here are my top things to do on Islay.
Things to do on Islay
✔ Tour a whisky distillery
Please excuse the predictability of this suggestion, but it has to be done! Islay is known around the world for its single malt whiskies, and a trip to the island would not be complete without a visit to at least one distillery.
You can base your choice of distillery on which whisky is your favourite, or on the location of the distillery. They all produce fantastic whisky and put their own stamp on the visitor experience, so you really can’t go wrong.
The nine distilleries on Islay are:
- Bruichladdich Distillery
- Kilchoman Distillery
- Caol Ila Distillery
- Bunnahabhain Distillery
- Ardnahoe Distillery
- Bowmore Distillery
- Laphroaig Distillery
- Lagavulin Distillery
- Ardbeg Distillery
Which whisky distilleries should you visit on Islay?
Islay’s thriving whisky industry creates an unstoppable buzz around the island, with visitors coming from all corners of the world to grace its shores. A visit to one of the island’s nine distilleries is a MUST! Here are my top picks.
Ardbeg Distillery has an airbrushed exterior and a modern visitor experience. Our guide Jackie – who is also the Visitor Centre Manager – is as knowledgeable and passionate as they come. The distillery has recently launched a new street-food offering in their pretty courtyard, served straight from the ‘ARDStream Trailer‘.
Bunnahabhain Distillery is known for its unpeated whisky on an island which is famed for the smokey stuff! The distillery is undergoing a major transformation, which includes the new, stunningly modern Visitor Centre. The views across to the Paps of Jura are incredible!
Laphroaig is the iconic Islay brand, and the distillery experience lives up to its name. This distillery is unique in that they still cut their own peat, and malt their barley before smoking it in the peat kilns. Finish the tour with a Laphroaig cocktail; I loved the ‘Penicillin’ (nothing to do with the medicine) with lemon juice, honey and ginger #OMG. Don’t forget to sign up to be a Friend of Laphroaig, and pitch your country’s flag in your own wee plot of land.
Ardnahoe is Islay’s ninth and there’s a beautiful, shiny newness to everything. The Still House, with it’s floor-to-ceiling glass windows, has to be one of the most scenic in Scotland thanks to its uninterrupted views of Jura. Being such a new distillery, Ardnahoe doesn’t have any of its own whisky yet, but I’m very excited to sample the first release when it is bottled. The distillery offers Whisky & Food Pairing tour which is on the list for my next visit.
Kilchoman is Islay’s only farm distillery and they are able to complete the full whisky production process on-site, from growing their own barley to bottling the finished product: they are now on their 10th edition of this special 100% Islay Whisky. In response to Covid restrictions, the distillery started offering Beach Tastings which have been a huge success. I thoroughly enjoyed sipping a dram of Machir Bay on Machir Bay itself!
Bowmore Distillery, is not only home to one of my very favourite whiskies, but my tour was timed perfectly to see the whisky production in full swing; the barley was being malted, the peat fire was on, and then there was mashing, fermenting and distilling.
Like Laphroaig, it’s brilliant to see Bowmore Distillery still carrying out these processes in-house, as many do now out-source. We also ventured into Scotland’s oldest whisky warehouse, which sits below sea level, and dates back to 1779. The tour finishes with samples of the Bowmore 12, 15 and 18 in the Tasting Bar which overlooks Lochindaal. An absolutely ideal situation.
✔ Take a boat trip with Islay Sea Adventures
One of the best ways to appreciate Islay’s iconic distillery buildings with their bold lettering is from the water, with a dram in hand, whilst listening to expert, local knowledge about the whisky industry. Islay Sea Adventures deliver exactly that!
The boat trips leave from Port Ellen and travel along Islay’s incredible coastline in search of whisky distilleries and wildlife. We saw so many seals (including the cutest wee seal pups) and an island of female deer with their fawns: the stags swim across from a neighbouring island during rutting season then leave again.
Gus and his daughter Bronagh couldn’t have made us feel more welcome, and generously supplied us with binoculars, lots of laughs, gummy sweeties and drams of Ardbeg.
- Islay Sea Adventures operate tours year-round (weather dependent)
- Book your Wildlife Tour with Islay Sea Adventures here
✔ Walk the Three Distilleries Pathway
Combine your distillery visits with a good old stretch of the legs on the Three Distilleries Pathway. Starting in Port Ellen, this safe and accessible walkway links three distilleries in three miles. This trio of distilleries are where you’ll find the island’s most heavily peated whiskies; Lagavuillin, Laphroaig and Ardbeg.
Walk this way for fresh island air, coastal views, and no concerns about who’s driving after a few drams – although walking in a straight line along the path may become quite a challenge!
- Take the bus to Port Ellen to start the walk and catch the bus or a local taxi back from Ardbeg Distillery.
- Make sure you check the time of the last bus back from Ardbeg or, you can pre-book a local taxi.
- You can also hire an eBike from Islay E Wheels to cycle the route (recommended).
✔ Step into the past at Finlaggan
Finlaggan is an ancient settlement on Loch Finlaggan which was once the administrative centre of the Lordship of the Isles; a series of Viking/Gaelic rulers and masters of the sea, who controlled the islands and part of the western mainland, separate from the Scottish monarchy.
The site is hugely historically significant, although I must admit that prior to my first visit to Islay, I had no idea of its importance. Even as I browsed the visitor centre and wandered through the ruins, I still found it difficult to comprehend what it must have been like at its peak in the 14th and 15th century, and the power that it represented.
- The site is maintained by the Finlaggan Trust
- Find out more on the Finlaggan website
For all the practical nitty gritty on planning a trip to the island, check out my Essential Guide to Visiting Islay which covers everything from flights, ferries and buses to the most commonly asked questions.
✔ Go seal spotting at Portnahaven
Portnahaven is an adorable fishing village on the Rhinns of Islay. This pretty pocket of the island has a sheltered harbour which is home-sweet-home to lots of grey seals, who can often be seen splashing around or basking in the sunshine on the rocks.
I’ve seen half a dozen of these cheeky wee creatures at one time, and apart from giving me a quick once over when I first sat down, they were otherwise unfazed by my presence. I was mesmerised by their antics, and could’ve watched them for hours. One of my favourite things to do on Islay!
- Portnahaven is served by the local bus and is a lovely journey right around Lochindaal
- Visit Port Charlotte while you’re at this side of the island
✔ Explore the Mull of Oa
Mull of Oa is a rugged and dramatic peninsula at the very south of the island which is characterised by towering sea cliffs and rich moorland. The exposed and isolated location feels distant from the distilleries and island settlements, and the gusts of sea air will lift your spirits and blow any thoughts and worries from your mind.
Home to The Oa Nature Reserve, the peninsula puts you in a prime position for bird watching and there are weekly guided walks through the reserve. Aside from nature’s handiwork, the most striking feature on the peninsula is the American Monument, which can be seen from the other side of the island. The monument is a touching tribute to the soldiers who lost their lives at sea nearby during WWI.
- Find out more about the Oa Reserve Guided walks here
- Follow this route for self-guided walk of the Mull of Oa and American Monument
- There is a walkway to the monument but it is still muddy/boggy in parts so wear sensible shoes
✔ Visit Kildalton Cross
Kildalton Cross is an impressively well-preserved and intricately carved Celtic cross, and thought to be the only remaining one of its kind in Scotland. The cross stands at the exact spot it was first erected over 1,200 years ago, and the various carvings – including angels, and David and the Lion – are still clearly visible.
On the same site, sits the romantic ruins of the Old Parish Church from the 13th century, and outside the grounds of the church you’ll find the Thieves Cross; it is said that whoever is buried there had committed crimes and therefore wasn’t worthy of a burial in a Holy place. A very special and peaceful location.
- Find out more about Kildalton Cross on the Historic Environment Scotland website
✔ Go sea kayaking along the coast
Being outdoors and taking part in water-based activities has so many benefits for your mental and physical health, and there is a big focus on “water wellness” in Scotland at the moment. Kayaking is such a fun way to expel some energy and explore Islay from the water.
I took to the water on a guided sea kayaking trip with Dave from Kayak Wild Islay. Dave is an excellent instructor, who also loves a bit of banter, which is a bonus. After meeting in Port Ellen we paddled to a scattering of wee islands and skerries, and even landed on ‘Sheep Island’ – my 58th Scottish Island! All equipment and wet suits are provided, and you can choose from a half day or full day trip.
✔ Ride a Fat Bike on the beach
Dave from Kayak Wild Islay also offers Fat Bike tours of Islay. My first trip with Dave, back in 2019, was also the first time I’d even heard of a Fat Bike! I pleased to learn that activity takes its name from the chunky tyres, and discovered that these sturdy tyres give you more cycling confidence and support. They also make it easy to cycle on sand, which is perfect for an island with such beautiful beaches.
My first Fat Biking trip was on the Big Strand, which is a seven-mile stretch of bonnie beach, which begins next to Islay Airport. Wavy lines in the sand were filled with pools of water which reflected the sky and glistened in the sun. Dave made us a hot drink which we enjoyed on the rocks by the sea. More recently, I went for a wee pedal on the beach in Port Ellen on a glorious day (photographed below).
- Book a Fat Biking tour with Dave on the Kayak Wild Islay website
- Advanced booking is recommended
Love the outdoors? My friend Kathi from Watch Me See also worked on the Heart & Soul campaign, and wrote an epic blog post about outdoor adventures in Argyll – featuring hiking, cycling and stargazing.
✔ Watch live music at the Port Charlotte Hotel
Port Charlotte Hotel has a cosy and welcoming bar which has been listed by the Whisky Society as one of Europe’s top whisky bars. As well as the impressive selection of local beverages, the food is some of the best you’ll find on the island. On my last visit, I had a rather exotic dish of guinea fowl with sweet potato, piri piri spices, and a mango salsa.
To top it all off, the bar regularly hosts local musicians who entertain with traditional tunes and Gaelic song. Live Scottish music is best enjoyed with sea views and a nice dram in front of the fire, don’t you think?
- The local bus stops in Port Charlotte, but finishes before 5pm. If you’re planning to stay out for the music, pre-book a local taxi to take you back to your accommodation.
- Read more about the bar and restaurant at the Port Charlotte Hotel here
✔ Discover Carraig Fhada Lighthouse
My new favourite spot on the island is the coastal area around the unusual, square-shaped Carraig Fhada Lighthouse. The lighthouse was commissioned in 1832 by the Laird of Islay, Walter Frederick Campbell, in memory of his wife, Lady Eleanor Campbell; the nearby town of Port Ellen is named after her.
Not only is the lighthouse quite a sight to behold, the shoreline right along Kilnaughton Bay is skirted by clean, turquoise waters that became increasingly irresistible after a long cycle on a hot day (see my next suggestion). On the way to the lighthouse from Port Ellen, you pass the beautiful Kilnaughton Beach and the old churchyard and cemetery which overlooks the sea.
- I cycled round to Carraig Fhada Lighthouse on an eBike from Islay E Wheels.
✔ Go wild swimming at The Singing Sands
Tràigh Ban, The Singing Sands, is the beach of dreams: serene and secluded with perfect white sand and a sea of luminous blues. The beach sits just beyond Carraig Fhada Lighthouse, yet blissfully out of sight.
Cold water swimming never fails to awaken my senses and calm my mind, and the sea here certainly wasn’t warm, but it was a real treat on a hot day. Wild swimming can be very dangerous, so should only be attempted in a safe and responsible way by experienced swimmers. I was accompanied by Yvette from Wayfaring Kiwi, I didn’t venture far from the shore or stay in the water for long, and I changed into dry clothes immediately.
✔ Stay at Glenegedale House
Yes, staying at this accommodation is a wish-list experience in my eyes. Glenegedale House is the epitome of island hospitality, and you don’t need to just take my word for it; they have received multiple awards and accolades, including the ‘most Hospitable Bed and Breakfast in the West of Scotland’ by Visit Scotland at the Thistle Awards. The hosts, Emma & Graeme, are passionate perfectionists with a flair for fine food and warm welcomes.
The couple carefully source all their produce and ingredients from small, artisan suppliers. Expect freshly baked treats on arrival, Laphroaig in your breakfast porridge, and tasting platters served on a stave from a whisky barrel. My favourites on the cheese and charcuterie platter were the Millers Larder Perfyit Piccalilli, the truffle and porcini pork salami from East Coast Cured and Mr C’s Hand-Crafted Pies Ltd Perfect Posh Game Picnic Pie. Amazing.
Despite the luxury offering, the experience at Glenegedale is anything but pretentious; in fact, I had an absolute hoot! The best bit of advice I can give you around accommodation on Islay is plain and simple – stay here. Oh, and book in advance.
- Glenegedale House is located across the street from the airport, and sits on the bus route which serves the main towns and ferry ports on the island; Port Ellen (10 minutes), Bowmore (10/15 minutes), Port Askaig (40 minutes).
- To check prices and book click here
✔ Visit the Museum of Islay Life
The Museum of Islay Life is located inside the former Kilchoman Free Church building in Port Charlotte, and could easily be mistaken for an antique shop when you first enter. This is no contemporary museum with fancy visuals and perfectly arranged exhibits in glass cases. It’s a quirky and chaotic (I’m one to talk) arrangement of exhibits which showcase life on Islay over 12,000 years; from the Mesolithic era to modern day.
The extensive array of items includes everything from clothing, furniture, children’s toys, household items, and industrial tools to ancient artefacts, war memorabilia, books, photographs, and letters. Be sure to give yourself plenty of time to appreciate it all. The museum is a charming and interesting way to learn about Islay’s history and culture, and there’s also a wee shop if you wish to purchase any gifts or books to continue your learning. Exactly my kind of visitor attraction.
- The Museum of Islay Life is a charitable organisation which is run by a board of trustees.
- Entry costs a very reasonable £4, or you can contribute even more to the conservation of the items and the running of the museum by signing up for an annual membership for £10.
- Visit the museum website for more information
Need some help planning your trip to Islay? Check out my Itinerary Planning services
✔ Venture over to the Isle of Jura
Islay and Jura are separated by the narrow and fast-flowing Sound of Jura, which can be crossed on the Argyll & Bute Council ferry in just 10-minutes. Isle of Jura is the wild and rugged gem of the Hebrides, and while you can visit for the day, and book a tour with Jura Island Tours, I would recommend staying for longer at the Jura Hotel. I spent two nights on the island, and fell in love with it. Read about my Isle of Jura adventure here.
✔ Shop local for gifts and souvenirs
It is more important to spend your money locally and support small businesses on your travels. Islay’s residents are a talented and entrepreneurial bunch, and each time that visit, there are more new ventures to discover. I’m like a child in a sweet shop when it comes to Scottish crafts, homeware and artwork, so I never leave this island empty handed – that’s for sure.
My favourite wee businesses on Islay
In Bowmore, I always pay a visit to The Celtic House, which has been selling island crafts and gifts for decades. The interior is packed with all sorts of lovely things, from books and artwork to clothes and jewellery. There is also a wee coffee shop upstairs with a selection of freshly baked treats, and lots of flavoured teas.
Just across the street is the wonderful Spirited Soaps. Gemma’s gorgeous soaps, lip balms and lotions are all handmade with natural ingredients, including whisky (of course!), gin and rum from Islay and Jura. There is a reason why Spirited Soaps has a global fanbase!
Islay House Square, located at Bridgend, allows you to shop directly from a handful of local artists and makers. Browse Islay Studios for artwork and prints from Scottish artists and local Islay photographer Mark Unsworth. Jane Taylor, who is known for her Islay Distillery Prints is also based in the square: I left her studio with a lovely, linocut print of Bowmore.
Finally, if you have a sweet tooth, be sure to stop in at the wee honesty shop near Port Charlotte for some bags or boxes An Gleann Tablet. There are also candles, honey, and cards etc. available to purchase.
Where to Eat on Islay
Foodies and local produce lovers will leave this island very well fed, that’s a guarantee. There are lots of independent eateries and hotel restaurants serving a high quality cuisine, and you’ll also find sweet treats and home baking in abundance. These are my top recommendations for places to eat on Islay.
- Peatrezia, Bowmore – this cleverly-named, family-run establishment, housed within a historic church building, is all about serving quality, stone baked pizzas, Italian classics, and starters which were made for sharing – all with their own Islay twist. I’m talking pizza of chicken and haggis with peat smoked essence, fries with peat smoked sea salt and peat smoked BBQ sauce.
- The Islay Hotel, Port Ellen – this beautiful, modern restaurant has a varied menu boasting excellent produce from both land and sea, as well as some simple, pub classics executed to a high standard. I ordered the Islay scallops in garlic butter, and it was fantastic!
- Port Askaig Hotel, Port Askaig – a friendly, cosy, traditional hotel which has a history spanning over 400 years! I highly recommend ordering seafood when you’re there. I had the monkfish and prawn curry which came with a homemade onion bhaji. It was absolutely delicious! The accompanying bottle of Islay Ales Big Stand Craft Lager was also a great decision.
- The Wee Box – this brilliant new business serves fantastic coffee, home bakes and a selection of wraps, toasties and paninis. Rosie has a choice of non-dairy milks available, as well as gluten free.
- Ardstream Trailer, Ardbeg Distillery – possibly one of Islay’s most innovative distilleries, Ardbeg’s newest improvement to the visitor experience is their converted airstream trailer, complete with a wood-fired oven. Expect wood-fired pizzas, pulled meats and soups etc., served street-food style in the distillery courtyard.
How to Get to Islay
The quickest way to Islay is to fly from Glasgow– the Loganair flight takes as little as thirty minutes and prices range from £54.99 to over £100 each way. The local bus stops at the airport and connects with all the main towns on the island.
The slow and super-scenic route to the island by bus and ferry – the bus from Glasgow to Kennacraig with Scottish Citylink takes around 3 hours 15 minutes and you can get advanced fares for as little as £23.60 return. The CalMac ferry from Kennacraig to Port Ellen on Islay takes around 2 hours and 10 minutes and costs £14.20 per adult. If you are driving to the ferry, taking a car on-board costs £71.10 return.
On two of my visits to the island, I flew there then took the ferry and the bus back so that I could experience different routes and scenery.
If you enjoyed this blog post, or are planning to extend your trip beyond Islay, check out my blog posts on Jura, Glasgow, Arran, The Slate Islands, Coll and Tiree.
Great review of my favourite place!! We have another trip planned for next year and I’ll definitely be using some of your advice! thanks you!
Thanks so much Phil. I absolutely love Islay! I managed two trips last year, and will definitely be back again and again 🙂 Hope you enjoy your trip this year 🙂
Your blog again helped us with our 4 day first visit to this wonderful island. Everyone going has to take the time to go over to Jura. Now one of my favourite places ever! Thanks again. Visited last spring.
So glad to hear that June! I absolutely love Islay and Jura
We are booked up to go at the end of May, did u find the public transport on the island to be OK, we will be wild camping so looking to get buses around the island but can’t figure out the timetables
Hi Jacqui! The local buses are great and really reliable. They don’t run after about 5pm – 6pm so if you’re looking to go out after that, you’d need to pre-book a local taxi. The timetable is at the link below. You look for your date on the first page, so that you know which colour of timetable to check. You can then check all the stops and times 🙂 Hope this helps!
https://www.argyll-bute.gov.uk/isle-islay-portnahavenport-askaig-bowmore-port-ellen-ardbeg