Looking for things to do, places to eat and answers to your FAQs on the Isle of Mull? I’ve covered everything you need to know in this post. I hope it brings you lots of inspiration if you haven’t need to Mull, or brings back happy memories if you have.
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The Isle of Mull is island perfection. In hardly any time at all, you can wave goodbye to the touristy bustle of Oban and grace the shores of an extinct volcano. The jagged, natural skyline of Mull makes quite a statement, even in the distance from the mainland and nearby islands.
In contrast to its rocky heights, Mull also puts on an impressive show down at sea level with charming seaside settlements, stunning coastal roads, and those quintessential Hebridean beaches which are infinitely more special when seen with your own eyes rather than through the lens of a camera.
The vast, wild spaces and ease of access to the sea are a playground for outdoor adventurers, whether you fancy bagging Ben More, Mull’s only Munro, making a splash with a water-based activity, or simply breathing in the freshest of air and island scenery; there’s a high chance you’ll spot some wildlife too!
On top of everything that nature provides, Mull is very well set up for the hungry visitor with a wide selection of quality eateries; one of the best of any islands I’ve been to. Accommodation is also plentiful and covers the whole spectrum from camping, glamping and castles to hostels, B&Bs and hotels: all of which get booked up quickly during the peak summer period (so be warned).
I have so much to say about Mull from my many visits, that I’ve finally decided to capture everything in this complete guide to the island, covering all the practical information and travel inspiration you need to plan a memorable trip. Let’s get going!
Where is the Isle of Mull?
The Isle of Mull belongs to the Inner Hebrides off the West Coast of Scotland and some of the surrounding islands include Lismore and Kerrera to the east, Colonsay, Islay, Jura and Gigha to the south, and Staffa, the Treshnish Isles, Coll and Tiree to the west. Across the Sound of Mull – an 18 mile passage of water between Mull and the mainland – is the Morvern peninsula, which is one of Scotland’s lesser known gems.
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT MULL?
Most visitors flock to the islands during the Easter school holidays and summer months. During the summer, everything is open, daylight sticks around for longer and the weather *should be* at its best (always expect the unexpected in Scotland!); this is also when the puffins are in residence on Staffa and Lunga.
Despite all this, my favourite time of year to visit Mull is during autumn; the best season for travelling Scotland, in my opinion. Yes, there is less happening, some businesses close or operate on reduced hours, and boat trips finish for the season during October but the trade-off is that there are far less people around, there’s a refreshing bite in the air, you’re more likely to catch a beautiful sunrise and the autumn-coloured landscapes are something special.
If you plan on visiting Mull during the autumn/winter months, let the outdoors be your entertainment and take time to read and relax indoors. Contact local tour operators in advance to see if they are still running tours or they are happy to offer a private tour. I would recommend staying in a hotel with a bar and restaurant, like Western Isles Hotel in Tobermory, so that you’ll be fed, watered and cosy at the very least.
If you’d prefer to visit outside of the busy peak, but would want to experience all the tours, attraction and restaurants when they’re open, spring is also a lovely time to visit.
Basically, there is something for everyone all year round.
How long to spend on Mull
In the grand scheme of Scotland’s many islands, Mull is on the larger side, therefore exploring the whole island will take longer than you think. It is entirely possible to visit Mull on a day trip from Oban, but I would recommend choosing one particular part to visit (e.g. north or south) instead of zooming around and trying to cover too much ground. The north of the island is also a popular day trip from Ardnamurchan or Morvern.
To really appreciate the island and all that it has to offer, I would recommend a minimum of 3 – 4 days and this would allow you to visit some other islands too. If you have more time, a whole week would be even better and there is absolutely enough to fill your time for this duration.
If you are travelling by public transport, a day trip from Oban is still possible, but your options are more limited; either Tobermory in the north or Fionnphort in the south for the ferry to Iona. See below for more information on Mull by public transport.
How to get to the Isle of Mull
There are three CalMac ferry routes which connect the Isle of Mull with the mainland. If you’re visiting by public transport, you’ll take the ferry from Oban; the other two ferries crossings are best if you have a car.
> Read my blog post about Oban here <
Oban – Craignure (approx. 45 minutes)
This is the largest of the ferries to Mull and the most popular route given Oban’s easy-to-each location and its public transport connections. Vehicles and foot passengers should book in advance.
ScotRail operate the train service between Glasgow and Oban which takes approx. 3 hours.
The best priced fares go on sale 12 weeks before travel. There is also a bus service from Glasgow with Scottish Citylink which takes an equally scenic 3-hour route.
LOCHALINE – FISHNISH (approx. 18 minutes)
Fishnish is on the road between Craignure (the main ferry port on Mull) and Tobermory in the north, and this route connects Fishnish with the village of Lochaline on the Morvern peninsula.
This would be perfect for anyone with a car who wishes to explore some less touristy territory on their way to or from Mull. This would allow you to do a road-trip loop, rather than retracing your route on the Oban ferry. This ferry is a ‘turn up and go’ service.
KILCHOAN – TOBERMORY (approx. 35 minutes)
The route between Kilchoan on the Ardnamurchan peninsula and Mull’s colourful port of Tobermory. Another of the West Highland Peninsulas, Ardnamurchan is a stunning and remote destination, home to Ardnamurchan Lighthouse, which sits at the most westerly point on the UK mainland.
A car is required to explore Ardnamurchan, and this would also make for an incredible road trip loop, either arriving onto Mull via Ardnamurchan then departing from Craignure to Oban, or the other way around. This ferry operates a ‘turn up and go service’, so it’s wise to arrive early – especially if you’re travelling on the last ferry of the day.
Isle of Mull BY Public Transport
I’m always asked whether it is possible to visit Mull by public transport and the answer is absolutely yes. While the buses don’t cover the whole island, you can still have a great experience. There is also the option to book a local tour guide to reach any locations you’re unable to without a car.
The local buses are operated by West Coast Motors. I recommend downloading the smartphone app. to access timetables, plan your journeys and purchase tickets (you can also pay cash or contactless on-board).
craignure – TOBERMORY (approx. 1 hour)
Travel north and base yourself in Tobermory where there’s a small supermarket, pubs, and plenty of places to eat.
There is bus service from Tobermory to Calgary, where you’ll find one of the most beautiful beaches on the island.
Staffa Tours operate boat trips to Staffa & Lunga, and there are local tour guides who will pick-up in Tobermory.
Local taxis are also available but this would get pretty expensive if you’re planning on travelling any distance.
craignure – FIONNPHORT (approx. 1 hour 15 minutes)
The other option is to travel south from Craignure to Fionnphort, the main village on the Ross of Mull.
This part of the island has less going on in terms of eateries and attractions, but it is incredibly beautiful and Fionnphort is where you catch the ferry to the Isle of Iona.
isle of mull: TOP THINGS TO DO
Mull is a place to immerse yourself in the outdoors and experience a non-stop display of natural wonders, from land to sea. You can even extend your adventure to neighbouring islands thanks to the ferry connections and boat trips on offer. These are my favourite things to do on Mull.
HIT the beach at Calgary Bay
The most popular beach on the island and for good reason: unspoiled white sand, clean, bright blue water, and a quirky ice cream shack, Robin’s Boat (closed during winter). While it would obviously be an absolute dream on a sunny day, Calgary Bay looks particularly “Scottish” against autumn foliage and grey skies.
If you prefer more ‘under the radar’ beaches, continue along the coast towards Ulva Ferry to discover the hidden beach with black sand, Traigh na Cille.
PICNIC AT EAS FORS WATERFALL
Starting on one side of the road, then performing a triple-cascade down to the other, before finally dropping off a cliff, Eas Fors waterfall is the gift that keeps on giving.
Such a lovely location is well worth a linger, so prepare a packed lunch, or even better treat yourself to a seafood platter from The Tobermory Fish Company. Absolutely outstanding and best served with views across to Ulva and the soothing soundtrack of moving water.
HOp ACROSS TO THE ISLE OF ULVA
A small ferry transports foot passengers from Ulva Ferry on Mull across a narrow strip of water to the community-owned Isle of Ulva and the system for summoning the ferry is an absolute novelty; it involves a wooden board and a red panel.
There are a few walking trails on the island, the Ulva Shore and Woodland Walk being a great introduction. The highlight for me however, was The Boathouse which is known for its fresh seafood and is now run by a couple from Edinburgh.
book a boat trip to the isle of staffa
A visit to Staffa is an absolute ‘must do’ experience when on Mull. I’ve now been to Staffa four times and still don’t feel any less excited on the approach to the island, which is characterised by striking basalt columns and the famous Fingal’s Cave.
My most recent visit to Staffa was from Ulva Ferry with Turus Mara, a friendly, family-run business with Iain Morrison and his son Colin at the helm. Launched in 1973, the business is still going strong and Iain has most certainly still got “the chat”.
Turus Mara operate from Easter until the end of October, visiting both Staffa and Lunga to see the puffins during the summer months, then just to Staffa from August onwards where you can still enjoy this unique island at a quiet time of year, and possibly see some seal pups too!
If you are staying at the Ross of Mull or visiting Iona, Staffa Tours and Staffa Trips operate from Fionnphort and Iona.
take the ‘scenic route’ to the ross of mull
If you have a car for your trip to Mull, be sure to drive the west coast ‘Scenic Route’; head west from Salen, follow the shores of Loch Na Keal, then wind round towards the Ross of Mull: a long peninsula in the south.
I should note that every road on Mull is a scenic route, but this one is particularly dramatic with undulating bends, bonnie sea views, and waterfalls appearing over high cliffs. Some of the landscapes are very reminiscent of the Quiraing on Skye! Ross of Mull is the least touristy part of the island too, which very much adds to the charm.
EXPLORE COLOURFUL TOBERMORY
Tobermory, at the north of the island, is Mull’s largest settlement, home to around 1000 residents. Famous in the UK as the setting for Balamory in the popular kids’ TV series, this pretty port town is an attraction in itself thanks to the iconic, brightly coloured facades along the harbourfront, set around a picturesque bay with views out to Calve Island and Morvern.
Here are my top suggestions for Tobermory:
- Follow the coast to Rubha nan Gall Lighthouse
- Lose yourself in the beautiful woodland and waterfalls at Aros Park
- Go shopping in Island Blue Tobermory
- Book a Warehouse Experience or Tasting at Tobermory Distillery
- Learn about the island’s way of life and history at Mull Museum
- Visit Mull Aquarium, Europe’s first ‘catch and release’ aquarium
- Have a few drinks at MacGoghans and The Mishnish
- Enjoy a sweet treat at Tobermory Chocolate and Isle of Mull Ice Cream
- Discover my favourite Tobermory eateries below
For more Tobermory inspiration, check out my blog on top things to do in Tobermory
EXPERIENCE THE ISLE OF IONA
One of my very favourite places on Earth, Iona is an island of serenity, and you feel it before you’ve even stepped off the ferry.
The crossing takes just 10-minutes from Fionnphort on Mull, then it’s time to explore on foot. You can visit for the day or stay overnight to experience the island calm after the last ferry has gone, taking all the day-trippers with it.
- Iona does really wind down in autumn and winter, and a lot of places are closed.
- Otherwise, my top suggestions for Iona are:
- Climb Dun I, the highest point on the island (not that high at all)
- Visit Iona Abbey, where St Columba established a monastery in the 6th century
- Go shopping for clothing, local wool, jewellery and homeware at Iona Craft Shop
- Walk to the stunning beaches at the north and northwest of the island
- Book in for fantastic food at St Columba Hotel and Argyll Hotel
- Go glamping at Iona Pods or Iona Campsite
Isle of Mull Wildlife Tours
Mull is renowned for its abundant wildlife, particularly its resident birds of prey, from the rare hen harrier to white-tailed eagles, and the even more impressive golden eagle. Other common wildlife includes deer, otters, seals, and hairy coos. In the surrounding waters, you might see whales, basking sharks and dolphins, and puffins take up residence on Staffa and the Treshnish Isles during the summer months.
While there’s every chance you will stumble across local wildlife during your visit, the best way to guarantee some wildlife action is on a guided wildlife tour. You will learn so much more than if you explored independently and spending time with locals is the best way to really understand a place.
This is also ideal for anyone travelling without a car or just visiting for the day: you can request pick-up and drop-off at the ferry. These are my recommended wildlife tours.
TOUR WITH Wildlife on Mull
Andrew, who has lived on Mull since 1990, and studied Ecology and wildlife management, now channels his expertise in nature and the environment into small group tours which focus on Mull’s abundant wildlife. Armed with binoculars, a telescope and Andrew’s well trained eye, we spotted white-tailed eagles by the sea, deer, seals, hen harriers, a golden eagle on top of a hill, and an otter swimming in the sea then munching it’s lunch on land.
- Andrew offers full day tours and lunch is not provided and there weren’t any food stops so you will need to prepare your own.
- In the cooler months, be sure to wrap up with warm layers, as you will spend a lot of time outside and the inside of the van is chilly too (windows open for ventilation due to COVID).
- For more information and to book click here
TOUR WITH MULL MAGIC
Ruth at Mull Magic offers wildlife walking tours on Mull, Iona and Ulva, including an Eagle Walk, an Otter Walk, and Beaches, Birds & Butterflies. Exploring on foot is the perfect opportunity to experience Mull’s natural environment while getting a good stretch of the legs, dose of fresh island air, and lots of chat from the lovely Ruth.
I was booked to go on an Otter Walk with Ruth, which we had to cancel due to the wild weather. Ruth insisted on driving from Tobermory to Craignure for my ferry later that day and gave me the packed lunch she would have provided on tour, including a flask of homemade soup, crisps, a Tobermory smoked trout and cream cheese roll, a can of juice and a delicious slice of home-baked cake.
From the short time I spent with Ruth, I was struck by her selfless nature and passion for what she does. I’m excited to return to the island to join one of her tours – and sample her scones which I’m told are a highlight – and can absolutely guarantee that you will have a memorable experience with Ruth.
- Ruth offers walks to suit different abilities, ranging from easy to strenuous.
- Walking boots, waterproofs and a backpack for your packed lunch are essential to go on a walking tour.
- For more information or to book click here.
Isle of Mull Geology
Mull is a spectacular, island-sized feat of geological activity; essentially an extinct volcano which erupted some 60 million years ago. The many layers of Mull’s landscapes tell the story of a time so long ago, it is almost beyond comprehension.
I was lucky to spend a whole day with local geology expert, James Westland, who introduced me to some significant geological features on Mull and Staffa, from P-Forms and dykes, to basalt columns and metamorphic rock. I won’t pretend to fully understand the subject of geology in all its complexities, but I have an avid interest in how Scotland’s landscapes were formed and have grasped the very basics (everything is ultimately the product of volcanoes and glaciers).
James is a lovely man who has a way of translating his vast knowledge into simplified explanations which are accessible for even my ‘chaotic’ brain. He also took me to Loch Bà for the first time which is a beautiful location, home to the internationally significant Loch Bà Ring Dyke: the collapsed chamber of the volcano.
- James offers individual guiding, as well as full and half day trips
- To join one of his field trips or guided walks click here
The Best Places to Eat on Mull
> Am Birlinn, Dervaig – brought to you by the Morrison family of Turus Mara fame, this cosy and inviting restaurant in a chalet-style structure boasts a varied menu, focused on fresh shellfish and local produce, including beef from Iain’s croft and homegrown salad, vegetables and fresh herbs.
> The Hen House, Ulva Ferry – look out for a wee wooden hut by the roadside and that’s your cue to stop for Anne’s tasty homemade sausage rolls, soups and meringues.
> The Creel, Fionnphort – this wee seafood bar is within a stone’s throw from the ferry to Iona, so there’s really no excuse not to visit if you’re passing. Expect seafood freshly landed at the pier, hot fish and chips, and hand-dived scallops.
> Tobermory Fish Co. , Tobermory – if you’re self-catering, this is your place to pick up fresh seafood and shellfish or one of their glorious platter boxes. The Cajun hot smoked salmon was a highlight!
> Café Fish, Tobermory – one of my favourite seafood restaurants in Scotland, and the place that finally got me into oysters. Pre–booking is always necessary for this small and very popular family-run eatery.
> Hebridean Lodge, Tobermory – no more than a 15-minute walk from the harbour in Tobermory, this small and intimate restaurant serves amazing, local-sourced, high-quality food. The restaurant is currently closed but they are offering takeaway meals to heat up at your accommodation.
> Western Isles Hotel, Tobermory – served in a beautiful conservatory with sea views, this hotel restaurant exceeded my expectations. Excellent quality, generous portions and really warm service. Everything was delicious and the scallops are huge!
Where to Stay on Mull: MY FAVOURITES
Western Isles Hotel, Tobermory
Still holding much of its classic, historic charm (lots of character and creaky floorboards) this Victorian hotel, perched above Tobermory bay, has been refreshed and improved by the current owners and is a now a fantastic place to stay.
I loved the roaring fire in the Reception area, the view of Tobermory harbour from my room, the gorgeous conservatory and fantastic food, and the warm and energetic service from the lovely Douglas. Oh, and not to mention the manager Julie’s wee sweetheart of a dog, Meg.
The hotel is a great option at any time of year and I very much enjoyed getting cosy here during autumn and would happily return in winter to relax and enjoy the food.
Ross of Mull Bunkrooms, Fionnphort
At the other end of the island, you’ll find the loveliest bunkhouse, contained within a historic cottage. There is an attractive common area with a wood-burner, a sparkly clean and well-equipped kitchen area, and two modern bathrooms with excellent showers. Accommodating just 8 guests across two bunk rooms, it won’t even feel crowded.
Dining options are very limited at this end of the island, therefore the bunkhouse is best suited to those who enjoy self-catering. It is also within close reach of the ferry to Iona. The bunkhouse is open all year-round, and I am planning to go and stay during winter: I love the idea of being one of very few visitors at that time!
I hope you enjoyed reading about my top tips for the Isle of Mull.
I’m Kay, by the way; you can read more about me here.
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